Review: Fishbones - Fishbone gear ties

Having covered the most excellent Piranha (which was their v2 product, but I got those first), I wanted to give the little sibling a trial before showing them to you, to get a better feel for their utility and differences.

These are the Fishbone gear ties (v1). You can see from the picture here that there are in fact three metals offered 1) 6061 T-6 Aluminum 2) 304 Stainless Steel and 3) Titanium. The aluminium and steel versions share the same exact geometry, where as the titanium is a little more "rounded".

The guys from Fisbones were good enough to send me a few of each to play with, but I've mostly focused on the steel ones. Why three options? well, in their own words:

Aluminum:

• Resists corrosion
• High strength to weight ratio
• Can be anodized in different colors
• Non-magnetic
• Nonsparking
• Light weight

Stainless steel:

• Resists corrosion
• Bright appearance
• Normally non-magnetic
• Great fatigue and impact resistance
• Durable

Titanium:

• High strength to weight ratio
• More than twice as strong as aluminum
• Almost half as light a steel
• Non-magnetic
• Excellent corrosion resistance

Measuring in at 14mm by50mm (½" x 2") and 3mm (1/8") thick, the Fishbones are smaller and thinner than their bigger siblings, weighing in at 3g  for aluminium and 9g for steel. When subjected to strain testing (by the makers), the aluminium slightly deforms at 36kg (80lbs) and has major bending at 72kg (160lbs) Note: projected total failure is only (135lbs). The stainless steel Fishbone only took a slight bend at 72kg (160lbs) in initial prototyping. Subsequesnt  That's a fairly impressive static load for a gear tie. Obviously, as with the Pirahna, these are not climbing rated, but for tying down gear, rigging tent flys or washing lines, that is heaps. 

As with the Piranha there are numerous ways to tie and apply the Fishbones. I especially like the detail given by Brent and Eldrick in their Kickstarter proposal in their examples of how to use them.

The geometry of the Fishbone lends itself to tie-downs, with a wrap and tuck type locking, using a Prusik-like friction bind on the paracord, and sharing the load between the ribs of the tool.

The eye-hole, and "gill-slot" give solid "head-forwards" ties, whilst the forwards facing pelvic-fin and ventral ribs before the tail fin give you three separate attachment points. On the dorsal side of the Fishbone, there are four shallow notches, and one deep one, all allowing purchase of your cord, and letting it bind tightly in a variety of configurations.

One of the things I really liked about these, are the clean straight lines, which enabled me to rig them to act as a zipper pull without having to worry about snagging, in such a way that I could also quickly detach them and use them to rig a line, or tie a bundle.

The stainless steel versions acted as a nice plumb-bob when rigged correctly, the nose pointing down, in a clean straight line.

I usually have a couple of lengths of 40cm paracord in my pocket, and idly fiddle with these at meetings and on the train, working out new combinations of ties and looking for new uses. Alas I had oped that the tail would fit into the A/C vents on my train, to enable me to latch myself in when there was no hand-hold but no.

I've found the Fishbones to be very handy little gadgets to have on hand, especially when, as often happens, I have had to bundle something up that I know I will need to unbundle shortly and quickly. Blankets, jackets and jumpers. Tactical Baby's favourite woobie and the like.

I think these will make a good addition to my cord and carriage kit, giving me quick-release tie options, and keep all my things snug and squared away without having to worry about knots binding up and keeping me from my fit when I need it. They make great gifts too!

Unlike the Piranha, the Fishbones didn't interlock neatly, so a 'head to head" clasp wouldn't work. No great loss though, there are plenty of other options.

The guys behind these even posted their original concept built to Instructables so you can have a go at making your own low-strength wire prototype version.

Home Front: membership

I've had some fun recently finding and joining up with some new organisations, for fun and education, licensing and commeradery.

I've been a member of the Victorian Kendo Renmei since 1998, and by association the Australian Kendo Renmei This has provided coverage under the Weapons Control Acts in Victoria for a number of items in my collection, as well as my practice of kendo and its associated arts.

To supplement that, and on top of my exemption by the Governor in Council as a bona fide collector, I also joined the Victorian Historical Edged Weapons Collectors Guild . I also signed up for my Paintball Marker License, after my run in with customs whilst trying to get parts to build a super cool looking lazer-tagger for the Stargate LARP I am involved in.



Then there are the more fun and exciting memberships. I've been a member of Immanent Threat Solutions Tactical for a couple of years now. They specialise in information, training and equipment to deal with, as the name suggests, Immanent Threats. From knot-work, to lock picking, survival navigation to urban threat assessment, as well as working with several groups of makers to produce some cool kit and reviews. I'm very pleased to be a part of their community, in my small way.

Zombease is a lot like my own writing, but specialising in Zombie Apocalypse scenarios. I really enjoy reading their content, Jake Sepulveda is a great guy, and I have enjoyed getting behind his line, and backing his projects.Try out the "Choose your own adventure" section and see how you go. Read all the guides first, and mentally equip yourself.



Zombie Squad is a philanthropic organisation dedicated to first response and support for ALL disasters, zombie or otherwise. They pride themselves on their mission to "educate the public about the importance of personal preparedness and community service, to increase its readiness to respond to disasters such as earthquakes, floods or zombie outbreaks."
I have been proud to help in their efforts to support the Hurricane Sandy relief drive (2012) and the Oklahoma Tornado relief drive (2013). Like Zombease, they also offer "zombie apocalypse" training and guides, but also apply these lessons to more mundane situations, for the benefit of their communities.

Lastly, and most recently added to my list of "professional associations"  in the field of Apocalypse Survival, is the Zombie Eradication Response Team. Who also offer real-world training for disaster preparedness, from a more martial perspective, that is an "organization that uses the Zombie as a metaphor for any one of numerous natural or man made disasters that have and will occur in our lives." I signed up and got some cool patches from them as well. I look forwards to connecting with other folks from "Squadron Q" (Australia) and maybe see you at an event.


I suppose my Health Informatics Association of Australia and Australian Society for Microbiology could also count ... I certainly keep an eye on the bulletins ...

Review: Mainstay Emergency Food Rations

I've been feeling really remiss as a prepper without a stock of MRE's and other per-packaged survival food. Like a cowboy without a Stetson, or a fisherman without a line. Military style MRE's are not easy to come by in Australia, but I was lucky enough to spot some silvery packets of goodness in the display window whilst visiting Global Gear (who have supplied me with some fun kit in the past).

I did some research online and it seemed that these were the real deal. These are the Mainstay Emergency Food Rations. These high density food bars come in three varieties, in 1200, 2400 or 3600 Calorie packs. Each of the three varieties consist of a vacuum sealed foil sachet, with extensive nutritional information, and contains a block of very solid food.

The 1200 weighs 228g (1/2lbs)and breaks into three measured blocks.

I grabbed a sample in the "Energy Bar/1200" size from Global Gear and opened it up to see what I got.

It's always a good idea to test out something like this, before you commit to perhaps a box full of something awful, but I was pleased to find that the Mainstay bars were quite palatable. A solid, slightly brittle block that for all the world felt and tasted like a coarse, buttery shortbread, with a light lemon flavour and scent. I ate a block of it, and whilst not filling, was certainly a hunger stopper.

Quite palatable, if crumbly, I can see these being a fast and easy way to keep your energy up in a challenging situation, especially if water was available. I was distinctly aware of the gritty texture, much like a very sweet, hard cornbread.

 I found that I left the uneaten portion in its wrapper and came back to it a couple of weeks later, to no noticeable effect. Properly sealed, they are designed to have a 5 year shelf life, but I expect they would still be edible long after this.
 
This ration is marketed as a "complete food" meaning that no other food intake is needed to meet all nutritional requirements in a survival situation.  Having a look at both the ingredients, and the "percent daily values" listing, it is possible to determine that these bars are indeed jam-packed with nutrition, and trace elements. Certainly not something you'd want to LIVE off, but life FROM, for sure.

Based on USCG and SOLAS standards, two blocks suffice to sustain life in "maritime settings" whilst three (a full packet) are recommended for land survival. Given the insights I made in looking at survival nutrition, and the availability of the 2400 calorie Mainstay ration in bulk from SurvivalStorehouse.com, I opted to buy a number of these from , as "get out of trouble" supplies.

I plan to stash some in my car, in my bug-out-bag, for when we go hiking or camping,  and at work, for those times when I just can't get out because of marauding hordes ...

Review: Princeton TEC - Switch MPLS light

I wanted to get a light to mount to my helmet, especially following my experiences with the helmet cams offered as part of the IRL Shooter: Patient Zero zombie experience which was that they came out really dark. Having easy to use illumination is so very useful in any low-light situation, especially if you need your hands free, or just want to light up where you are pointing your head. In front, or down at the ground.

That's where the Princeton TEC Switch MPLS comes in.

At just 17g, and running off 2 2016 Lithium Coin Cell batteries, this is not a heavyweight torch, but rather a very specific light source for specific duties. 

A single tap of the button gives a low light red LED glow, a double tap, the high intensity red LED light and with a two second hold, the
10 Lumen white LED is activated.

IR is also an option, with the right model. I didn't get the IR version.

The long, firm swan-neck allowed me to adjust the beam as I needed, whilst remaining stable and out of the way. The locking mechanism was also very secure, with a twist and multiple click system, which also gave a little bit of adjustment customization.

MICH Helmet and MOLLE mounts came standard with the MPLS, whereas the Picatinny Rail and Helmet Rail system mounts came in a second, accessory pack, be aware what you need!

With a 36 hour runtime, I expect that I will get a lot of use out of mine, not only mounting it to my bump helmet but also attaching it to myself and my kit when I go adventuring. I expect that the darkened obstacles at Tough Mudder and The Stampede will be a great opportunity to use them.  

I really liked having the two red-light settings, with a separate white-light option. Light discipline is something I really appreciate, especially when camping, and really don't enjoy getting a face full of photons because someone has a Dolphin Torch and wants to wave it around.

This unobtrusive, slimline light will get the job done!

Review: ITW GrimLOC

 When you start to collect a lot of gear, gadgets and kit, the question of "how do i get this to stay on, when I stow it, but come off when I want to use it?" comes up. I've used carabiners for years and years, to attach my keys, wallet and the like to me, mostly using the lightweight accessory carabiners you find hanging by cash-registers. Occasionally I have purchased proper climbing-rated ones, for when I've either been climbing, or wanted to carry some serious gear.

The natural progression for me is to see what others are using, which lead me to these: Apparently originally designed to allow Marines to add hydration systems to their webbing, this is the ITW Grimloc, and they offer a lightweight alternative to metal carabiners for gear storage and utility.

The high strength polymer provides a corrosion resistant, solar heating thermally resistant and lightweight alternative to steel or even aluminium carabiners, for non-load rated tasks. I've read that the breaking rating on the GrimLOC is 80lbs (36kg) and this is actually a design feature.  It prevents the wearer becoming caught up in slings and gear and trapped in potentially a threatening situation. It is also strong enough to take a fair amount of rough treatment, as a sling connection point to a plate carrier, for instance, without compromising utility.

 The way it works is that the curve of the D is hinged, with a locking end which operates by a push button. This mechanism is spring loaded, and incorporates a very clever Self Purging "SP" ports along the sides of the D to eliminate sand from blocking the mechanism.

These ports, along with the deeply fluted sides of curve of the D also add to the positive grip needed for   wet or gloved hands. This also reduces mass and adds strength.



 The locking mechanism will pop open given sufficient force, but will also open with a simple one handed press on the button, and opens partially, or with a little more force locks into an open position.

I've used this to hook my phone case to, run hydration tubes and comms cables over and round my shoulder straps and even offer a quick spot to dangle a bag.

The real magic of the design however, is the built in PALS/MOLLE loop feature.

That angled slit 1/4 along the length of the bar of the D allows enough of a standard 1" webbing strap to be fed into the gap that it will be able to be slotted in, secured into position, without compromising the strength of the clip, and eliminated the dreaded "carabiner roll" where the gate can migrate away from where you want or need it, usually pinching you in the process.

Here are a couple holding my ZuluNylonGear CAOS Admin Pouch to my Platatac Bullock Echo

When fitted properly, the GrimLOC will sit in place, where you need it, for as long as you need it, and come out without any fuss or tools.

I usually fit mine such that when they open, the gate forms a hook, rather than dropping my gear down to the ground. I suppose if I really wanted to go for the "high-speed/low-drag" alternative, I could flip them around, but really, I'd prefer to keep my gear snagged to me at this stage. I know, such a Geardo ...

These are great clips, come in a variety of colours to math your kit, and fill the gap that el-cheepo accessory carabiners simply can't be trusted  to fill.

Home Front: survival nutrition

 Its always interesting to see how food and nutrition is handled in disaster situations in film and TV. From The Walking Dead's baby formula and prison storerooms  to The Day After Tomorrow's vending machines, not to mention ZombieLand's Twinkies and Bill the (delicious) Donkey in The Postman.

I did a little reading about the "average adult daily energy intake" which lead to some interesting findings.

It is common to see "8,700kJ" as the average recommended intake, usually quoted on fast food menu's and the like, (as seen here on this poster for some tasty poultry products seasoned with 11 secret herbs and spices, as devised by a well known Kentucky Colonel.)

This figure is based in part by the Food Standard Code as published by the Australia New Zealand Standards Code (FSC). The FSC lists that value for daily intake levels based on an average adult diet. It is interesting to note however, that this doesn't take into account activity levels, and lifestyle.

It is it seems, more of a "minimum level" for and it has been suggested that it is more suited to bed-ridden individuals, rather than active survivalists, running, ducking, dodging and weaving their way through the ruins of civilization.

Interestingly when I looked up the nutritional content of current MRE kits, they suggested that servicemembers (who were classified as highly active men between the ages of 18 and 30) typically use about 4,200 Calories a day. The conversion is  1 kJ = 0.2 Calories (Cals)or 1 Calorie = 4.2 kJ, giving a figure of 17,640 kJ a little over double the "average adult intake diet".

Lets assume that post-disaster, you will not be having a sedentary desk-job life, and will be a rugged, fighting, and self-reliant survivor, chopping wood for fire, hunting and foraging (or farming) for food, and perhaps battling off marauders, zombies, triffids or the elements.

According to the FSC, and "MyDailyIntake.net", a "balanced diet for an average adult" is made up of the following nutrients each day:

Nutrient	Quantity Per Day
Energy	8,700 kilojoules
Protein	50 grams
Fat	70 grams
Carbohydrates	310 grams
Sugars	90 grams
Sodium (salt)	2.3 grams
Dietary Fibre	30 grams
Saturated Fatty Acids	24 grams

To meet up with our projects "serviceman" levels, you basically have to double that. Obviously, people have done with much less, for millennia and still managed to fight, survive and prosper, till you now find humanity all over the world. 

These "USCG/ SOLAS standard exceeding" food-bars state on their wrapper that  A daily maritime diet (being stuck on a life-boat, i presume) equals 3,333kJ, and a similar land based situation (say, stranded on a desert island) equates to 5,000kJ. However this is a base-survival diet, and wouldn't be much fun, or enough on its own to keep you fighting-fit.

Again, looking around at the figures, I found the Australian National Health and Medical Research Council published this table.

The average amount of kilojoules required daily is represented in the following table:

Age	Male	Female
12-15 years	10 900 kj	9 550 kj
16-18 years	12 900 kj	10 200 kj
19-50 years	11 550 kj	9 300 kj
51-70 years	10 450 kj	8 800 kj
Adults over 70 years	9 450 kj	8 300 kj

Source: NHMRC, Canberra. These figures represent average requirements for the Australian population. Actual energy needs for individuals will vary considerably depending on activity levels, body composition, state of health, age, weight and height. 

This follows the same sorts of levels as I might expect of an average, active person, lying as it does between the "sedentary 8700kJ" and the "active serviceman 17,640kJ", and well above the "marooned on a lifeboat 3,333kJ" levels the USCG suggest.

So, how do you get that level of nutrition, and maintain it, with limited resources?

Prison-style nutra-loaf?

Stockpiles of MREs?

Mainstay Survival Rations?

Pemmican?
a truckload of 2280 kJ Quarter Pounders?


There are lots of choices out there, and it comes down to how you aim to prepare, what you are preparing for, and how you want to live, before and after a crisis comes.

Home Front: Winterising

I really don't like the cold. That's one reason I have stayed in Melbourne, its very mild here in the winter. it rarely drops below freezing, had only snowed in urban areas perhaps twice in the last 20 years and winters, whilst chilly and et at times, blustery and overcast, are short, and pretty much a doddle. Especially when considering I compare those to Calgary, where i lived for two winters, having been evacuated from Dubai, UAE on New Years Eve 1990, or living in England for three years in the 1980's in an old Edwardian house.

My current house is a poorly insulated, rendered weatherboard with wide sliding windows.  It gets hot in summer, and in winter can get cold enough to see our breath indoors. 

Lacking central heating, or even functional fireplaces, we have two options: use the aged wall mounted electric heaters of dubious qulaity and upkeep, or portable heaters like oil radiators.

The third option is to improve on what we have!

I have used long strips of electrical tape to create flaps to cover the seams of our windows, which in turn has reduced the drafts, as well as rattle. We also make judicious use of our venetian blinds, and the available daylight for passive solar heating and heat retention at night.

I have the Pot Belly Stove working nicely, but its purely an outside solution in the rental, in this non-disaster situation, although i could install it, and flute it pretty easily. 

We also tend to cook longer, slower, bulkier foods, partially to provide bigger, hotter meals, but also as the cooking process again acts as "passive" heating, as well as being more likely to use candle-light accents around the house, which also put out heat.  Just recently I inherited a clothes-dryer, which we put in the lounge room. Noisy, but that added heat is very welcome.

Rugging up is the simplest option, and I have a collection of coats (my Platatac Harry 1.2 Softshell is getting a lot of wear this season), gloves (like the Condor Combat Nomex gloves, which have been great on the frosty mornings, like when i scraped enough ice from my window to make this snow-ball) and more often the Ironclad landscaper glovesbecause I've cut the iPhone/iPad because I've cut the finger tips off of the index finger and thumbs for iPhone/iPad touch screen use. Headsox, bandannas and Headover are also the go. I'm not shy of wearing my LazyPatch doona suit either.

The cold totally killed my late crop of tomatoes too .... but at least it doesn't look like i'll need to take "The Day After Tomorrow" steps just yet.