Horns and mugs.

 I've been really enjoying getting into Viking re-enactment these last few years. Part of this has been to get into the combat aspects, partly the crafting and the culture.  

Part of this is collecting and using period appropriate kit, part of it is becoming comfortable using anachronistic gear. Did you know its quite hard to chug a beverage from a drinking horn unless you tilt it to one side?

I now have three viking style drinking vessels. Two traditional and one more modern.

First up is the very slick and modern Goat Mug.

The Goat Mug is a 16 oz 470mL polypropylene horn shaped take on the classic keep-cup idea. Originally a Kickstarter project, now in full commercial production. It has been a mainstay of my desk since its arrival. With its silicone ring seal screw top and drip and spill proof locking clip, it's made a prominent workplace oddity. The best part is when people ask how it stands up. The molded leather hand-cuff inverts to act as a stand to support the horn with great stability, and protects the hand from hot beverage.  

The Goat Mug comes with a wrist strap and a shoulder sling for ease of carry, that clip to holes in the lid and tip respectively but I've never had much need of either.  I carry mine in my hand or table it in its holder. The seals are good enough to keep in a carbonated beverage and the horn keeps my mugs of tea hot for a lot longer than a similarly sized conventionally shaped mug would. They aren't even remotely period-appropriate but are perfect for adding flair to work or the open-pit bbq pig on spit Thing in the back-yard. The curvature of the inside presents some scrubbing challenges but I'm not phased by some tannin build-up and it's dish-washer safe.

Read the kickstarter Story here.

See their latest ideas here

buy one on Amazon here.

I also have a more traditional bulls horn drinking horn. This 8oz, 250mL capacity horn ( 9oz when filled to the brim upright) natural bull horn has a fine embellished brass rim riveted on and a brass tip fixed to the pointy end. The outer surface is well polished and the insides have been well cleaned and sealed to keep the horn structurally sound after long sessions of ale. The traditional horn has the drawback of not having a stable base to sit it down so once you get started its awkward to set it down till you've emptied your horn. 

I've knocked up a quick stand from some off-cuts for mine and you could always thrust it through your belt at the risk of spillage and wetting your britches. The brass fittings are handsome and lend themselves to adding some cordage as a sling.  It feels nice in the hand and it has a good capacity, and certainly looks the part.  

I personally like to be able to set a drinking vessel down when eating as a joint of meat on the bone can sometimes need two hands and pickled herrings are slippery.

 As i mentioned earlier, when drinking from a horn, its important you tilt the point of the horn downwards or to the side, not out in front or upwards when you drink, or you'll get an unexpected surge and slosh ypur drik all over your face, in your beard and down your chest. Amusing but wasteful and wont impress that sword maiden you've been waggling eybrows at over the fire.

 

 The final horn in my collection of drinking vessels is the "Eleet Original Viking Drinking Horn Mug"

 This elegant tankard has a 20 oz capacity and is fashioned from a worked ethically sourced ox horn in which the point of the horn has been bent back to form the handle / retention grip. The base of the is a colour-matched resin to seal off the mug and the inside is sealed with a 100% food safe non-toxic lacquer on the inside, in order to avoid the real horn odor and to avoid leakage. The exterior part is unpolished, unadorned and is kept real. The tankard feels great in the hand, it looks great and does the job. 

Being a natural product means each one has its own unique pattern and shape, but the true value is that it works. After a long day of swinging axes, hauling gear and arms and setting camp, let alone matching steel with the foeman and all the day to day challenges of the rustic Northman, having a large beverage to hand really brings home what is best in life. The "Eleet original Viking drinking horn mug" fits the bill AND I can set it down on the feasting bench to wrap an arm around someone close whilst feeding. 

 I don't think i'd want to put hot drinks in either of the horn vessels, (be it pine needle tea or the beans of Mocha for structural integrety reasons (hot water softens horn ...), but they're perfect for my home-brewed mead or cider. 

 

Its high capacity, flat base and broad handle make it the most convienient of my horns and mugs and as such keep it in highest rotation.
 

Wish Lust: Anachrobellum war-outta-time shirts

I wanted to take a moment to give a shout out to the folks at www.anachrobellum.com who, in conjunction with the Knife-hand the World folks, have put some pretty stellar t-shirt designs together, incorporating some of my favourite things. Vikings, Samurai and Revolutionary War warfighters, fitted and kitted with modern wargear.

Here are the three shirts that are available now:

This is the Til Valhall shirt. It portrays what a modern Viking pipe-hitter might look like while servicing his enemies with cold steel and hot lead.

As you can see, this berserker is a little better equipped to wreak slaughter and carnage upon his foe than were his distant ancestors — though true to form he has transitioned from blaster to a bearded skull splitter to make a point. We’re pretty sure Gunnar Hamundarson and Egil Skallagrimsson would approve.
Sure, maybe they didn’t have frags and mags in the Fóstbræðra saga, but that’s the way Anachrobellum rolls…and for that matter, it’s the way most of you roll as you conquer your way to Valhöll.

Here is the second in their line, The Tactical Samurai.

Why the Samurai? Of all the warrior archetypes in the world, none is perhaps more recognizable than that of the Samurai. The word Samurai is derived at least in part from the word saburau, which means “to serve.” That’s fitting enough, particularly in the modern context and even more so with regard to how we regard the warrior ethos. There’s nothing wrong with a little ego in a fighting man, quite the contrary — but if that ego is not subordinated to some sense of the greater good (serving your country, serving your community, sticking up for those weaker than you), well, then…

This particular Samurai is carrying some things MInamoto Tametomo and Miyamoto Musashi wouldn’t recognize — Mk17, PEQ15, OSS Suppressor, S&S Precision Manta strobe and the like — but they’d understand the philosophy behind it.





















Lastly, Roger's Rangers are back in the Roger's Rangers Returned shirt from . The frontiersmen and scouts trained by Robert Rogers were asymmetrical warfare experts before there even was a Continental Army (and long before anyone coined the term Asymmetrical Warfare). Once the Continental Army was established, its original 10 Rifle Companies were veterans of Roger's Rangers.
Capt. Robert Rogers first recruited his men in 1775 to support the British Army during the French and Indian War, conducting recce operations, raiding and essentially becoming an iconic example of (truly) light infantry operations.

This is a storied unit of American military history. Indeed, Rogers Rules of Ranging are studied and quoted even today -- just take a look at the United States Army Ranger Handbook, numerous scholarly works about warfare and counterinsurgency manuals. As such, Anachrobellum believes this warrior archetype to be imminently suitable for many of today's armed citizens and uniformed professionals.

The original Roger's Rangers were obviously limited in their equipment and weaponry. Those of today have far more impressive tools -- this is why our Roger's Ranger Returned is rocking SKD PIG gloves, a MK17 with Elcan Spector and PEQ15 -- as well as assorted other gear and the mandatory tomahawk of course!


Pick one up at www.anachrobellum.com or find them on Instagram, @anachrobellum.

#warouttatime

On Facebook here: https://www.facebook.com/Anachrobellum/

Viking Hardware piece

Raiding season is fast approaching, and many of you are yearning for adventure, salt-spray on your faces and the chance to prove your honor and win glory such that your forefathers and old-fathers  will sing your name and your children will ask to hear the stories again in the long winter of next winter.

But where you might find yourself loading up with kevlar and lead-spitting black rifles, and hopping in and out of HUVEE or MRAP, crossing seas aboard a C-130 or C-5, I thought I might cast your minds back some 1000 years to another group of hard-handed and steely eyed warriors plying their trade, by blood, fire and steel, as well as actual tradeable goods, the Vikings. I wanted to tell you a little about their wargear, and why it worked so well for them.


Read the rest on Breach Bang & Clear ...

Review: United Cutlery - M48 Walking Axe

Here's something I've been sitting on for a little while, and wanted to bring into the light, now that we are on the cusp of spring.

Much like Gimli The Dwarf I do enjoy the heft of a good axe in the hand. I've been chopping wood since I was 8 or 9 I think, off and on (our current house doesn't even have a fireplace), but I do have a brazier and the Pot Belly Stove project. I've previously reported on my other axes, including my outstanding FISKARS log splitter and my little United Cutlery M48 Ranger Hawk. In addition, I have at least one other traditional wood-hafted chopping axe, and two hatchets. Lots of axe-action. So when I saw that Global Gear was stocking the big sister of the Ranger Hawk, the "Tactical Axe" I thought I just had to get my hands on it.

The toxic green "zombie apocalypse" version of the axe is called a walking axe, referring to it being walking stick height. You can see here that this is pretty much the case, and for people shorter than me this would probably even be a comfortable option. It's just not quite long enough for me in this role. More on that later. (Check out my new 5.11 Tactical Kilt, too)


Here I've lain the two M48 axes side by side so you can get an idea of the differences between the heads.

They both share the "bearded axe" design that I am very find of, and you can see that the Walking Axe has a more pronounced curve to the head, as well as being longer edged.at around 12cm (5") of blade, and being 20cm (8") long. Wielding it brings out my Viking heritage more than I care to say ...

The other features of the head differ between the tomahawk and the walking axe, which was interesting. It wasn't simply a matter of putting the same head on a different shaft. Instead of three circular holes running backwards from the head, three triangular holed run down the length of it. These sit well past the secondary grind, and add to the liveliness of the blade considerably.

This is probably a good thing, because instead of the sharpened pick at the back of the axe, the Walking Axe features a curved hammer/handle end. With these considerable differences this really is a stand-alone piece. You can also see the differences in the shaft, which I'll cover in a moment.

The 91cm ( 36") super strong, black handle is made of a 30% fiberglass composite and is both light and quite rigid, whilst still having some flex to absorb the shock of impact.

There are two sets of ringed groves set into the haft, one down at the butt, the other about midway, which is a slightly larger set having two sets of 8 groves, the lower set just a single set of eight. As well as these there is the "knuckle" bump at about three quarters of the way up the haft, a features shared by the Ranger Hawk, as well as a set of finger grip lumps behind the beard that the Ranger Hawk does not have.

The cast 7Cr17 stainless steel blade is quite sharp and has considerable bite, good for chopping as well as whittling, if you can manage the long haft. As with the Ranger Hawk, the axe head is attached to the haft with three separate metal hex bolts.

The fittings are exactly the same between the two, and I suspect I could swap them out without any trouble at all.

You can see here the hammer/handle end is actually quite curved, and lacks a flattened striking face, more like a ball-peen hammer.

The fact that the hammer/handle end has a downwards curve lends itself to the idea of using it as a "break and rake" tool for clearing window frames, in the event you need emergency entrance (or exit). It, like the head of the blade, is quite thick, surprisingly so given the over all weight of the axe, which is only 1.4kg (3lbs) or so.

It also gives a nice, ergonomic place to rest your palm whilst hiking with the axe, in its walking-stick aspect.

The slight skeletonisation of the head drops the weight again, and adds a double line of gripping points to add to your ability to retain the tool when holding it.


The axe comes with a synthetic rubber "guard" which in theory pegs itself closed through the top of the cut-aways in the head. In my one, this didn't quite work, and I had to run a twist tie through the loop in order to snag it shut. With drain holes a-plenty, and covering the bitey tops and bottoms the of the beard, this does a good job in protecting the user, the environment and random passer-s by from feeling the bite of the axe.

This is a fun piece, and very lively in the hands. The play from gripping it, swinging it, and the slide of hands along its haft makes it a very quick and light tool, a far cry in feel from my FISKARS log splitter, and felt much more like a sword than a hammer, so to speak.

The lightness of the head will play a part in its usefulness when it comes to chopping and splitting, but for brush clearing, and the lopping of limbs, I suspect it will do just fine.

The fiberglass reinforced handle, as I say, is a tad too short for me to use as a walking stick, personally, but I have a big household, and I'm sure someone will find it useful in our upcoming camping and adventuring summer!

Til Valhall!