Review: cast iron pans

I thought it might be time to look at some more rustic side of both camping and survival. I've covered some light-weight cookware  before which is just the thing if you are humping a pack into the back country, or making a roost half way up a mountain, but they just don't have the feel of home cooked cookware, nor do they have the feel that comes of more solid construction.

Modern pans, with ceramic, teflon or even enamel coating, with a variety of metals as the base, aluminium, steel, sandwiched copper, but some are delicate, some warp and some don't do well in open flame.

However, cast iron is a tried and true material, in common use for pans from 200BC until the 1970's.

Cast iron has the ability to withstand and maintain very high cooking temperatures, and its excellent heat retention makes it a good option for long-cooking stews or braising. A well seasoned pan will have a layer protecting the cookware from rusting, providing a non-stick surface for cooking, preventing food from interacting with the iron of the pan. This forms essentially a renewable "non-stick" surface.

Frequent use of acidic foods such as tomato sauce or the harsh cleaning of the pans will remove the seasoning and the cookware will need to be re-seasoned frequently.  This is one of the reasons cast-iron has fallen out of favour, it requires attention. They can also rust, when neglected.

It's also heavy. The 9" all-iron pan weighs 1050g (2.3lbs), the
10" wooden handled pan 2000g (4.4lbs), where as the teflon coated red handled 10" pan under these
weighs half that.  That said cast-iron pans are bomb-proof. The wooden handled one I picked up in New Zealand, and brought home rather than discarding, the all iron pan, I found at an op-shop.

I heartily recommend anyone who spends time outdoors, and can hump a bit of extra weight, to pick up a cast iron pan. They cook really well without burning, warping or leaching nasties into your food. They can take a fair bit of abuse and, with some very easy maintenance they'll last a lifetime.

Review: Mystery Ranch - 1Day Assault Pack

I put in just one request this Giftmas past, I saw on a Facebook group I am on (hey all you Secret Ranch folks!) one of the very limited, Singapore only release of a day pack from the inestimable Mystery Ranch. The good folks at Mystery Ranch, who have been putting together packs for Military, Fire and Rescue, Backpack Hunting and Mountaineering for 30 years, and I've been lusting after them.

I have a piece of Mystery Ranch kit already, the very cool Cinch Strap, which enables you to fit a pack over the top of a plate carriers shoulder straps and release it quickly as needed. That's the kind of forward thinking that they put into their products.

The Asia only release of this design is available through Hornest. It is very similar in design to the newly released ASAP Pack, and the more mature 3 Day Assault Pack.  This however is the Mystery Ranch 1 Day Assault Pack.

This 18.2L (1110 cu inch) pack features the iconic Mystery Ranch 3-way Y-zip which drew me to their packs in the first place, and weighs in at roughly 1.2kg (2lb 12oz) due in no small part to the tightly woven, water resistance treated 500d Cordura that makes up its walls. The bottoms of the pack is double layered and the inner layer is reported to be cut 1/2" smaller than the outer layer, placing the bulk of the load's weight on that inner layer, leaving the outer unstressed. Brilliant design.

The 1DAP is a smaller 3-zip pack with multiple pockets internally and externally. I have previously very much enjoyed the smaller packs I've used as my daily carry, with the much beloved Platatac Bullock Echo being the logical progression from my Crumpler Messenger Bag, and the MR 1DAP is a fitting successor to both of those, and my more recent every day carry bag, the rugged Propper Gen Multipurpose satchel bag. I wanted to be able to carry a bunch of my usual preparedness kit, without wanting to draw too much attention to myself, so I jumped at the chance for a "regular guy" black option, over my more usual khaki, this time.


The 1DAP features 3 rows of 3 channel PALS/MOLLE on both of the top sides, as twin 6 loop daisy-chain strips of loops running down the front of the pack. These are perfect for attaching lights, attaching carabiners, looping cord or what have you.

All the external facing zippers are reversed, and tape covered, to resist water and dust intrusion. The long stem of the Y of the zip extends from the very base of the pack all the way into three inches into body of the pack. The two arms of the Y zip all the way to the back of the pack, and each can be opened independently, to use as a flap lid for the top, a side entrance for just a hand, or opening all three, filleting the pack, for full access.



It offers several hydration configuration options, internally, there is a loop of cord at the very top of the inside of the pack for attaching a hydration bladder like the Source Storm WXP or the Platapus PIB, but more than just an attachment point, the 1DAP zippered access ports at the top corners of the pack (with some of my safety-orange paracord threaded through, to demonstrate here). Those zippers tuck well out of the way when not in use, shielded by the same reverse-cover design as the main body zippers, keeping rain and crud out.

The pale internal sleeve is made up of a backing, sewn into the top seam of the pack, and is open on the sides, with just two webbing anchors about 3/4 of the way down. This gives the internals of the pack some freedom of movement, without sacrificing stability. This allows larger items to be slipped under the front, cables and even additional hydration bladders to be fitted.

The internal sleeve also features a deep drawstring closure pocket, which can accommodate a variety of large items, like the 2L version of the Pathopak, which are 125x170mm, with ease. This is a great place to stow a hydration bladder, keeping its potential condensation off the rest of your kit, I also use it to secure larger items I don't want bouncing about the pack, or even my lunch. You could also use it as the base-cap of a longer item held secure by the drawstring, and projecting out of the top of the pack.

There are two mesh sided utility pockets with zippers against the bottom of the drawstring pocket of the sleeve, which are very useful as the rest of the packs internals are free from attachment points. Nowhere to attach pouches, which is a drawback, but the upside is that there is a lot of room to store larger items. The fact the internal sleeve is not fully attached also means you can shove it up, and out of the way, and place broader items at the base of the pack, and adjust for weight without crowding.

The top of the pack features a very clever, reverse opening and horseshoe shapes top pocket, as well as a broad patch of loop field, to attach patches and name tapes. Inside, a spacious main area, with a mesh-lining at the bottom allows storage of a variety of items. I keep a spare cap, and goggles, and a LazerBrite light in mine. The "top" of the lid features a zippered pocket, where I keep first aid kid, some gloves, a haemostat kit and the like. You may have noticed that at the tops and bottoms of each of the zipper runs, and lines of webbing, there is a loop, primarily for assisting a grip and unzip.

This is another example of the forward thinking put into the design of these bags. Another aspect, is the Futura Yoke system of shoulder straps and attachments, which allow for some really clever adjustment options.

The contoured padded components, with some built in webbing loops (you can see I've put a ITW GrimLOC on my left strap) and a pectoral strap, to secure the pack whilst you're on the bounce. These are nicely done, but pretty standard, there are tri-glide buckles with webbing feeding through from the back of the pack to the shoulder straps, and these play a really key role in adjusting the pack.

As well as the air-mesh backing of the pack, it has a built in semi-rigid packing behind that, which is how the pack manages its rather exciting transformation.

Fiberforge, a thermoplastics company Mystery Ranch has partnered with, builds their Framesheet Adjusters. These adjusters are a thermoplastic composite material created by fusing fiberglass with recycled softdrink bottles. The resulting material is apparently 60% lighter and 600% stiffer than steel, and 30% lighter than aluminium. This plate matches another one that sits inside the pack at the bottom, forming lizard like scales that give the pack a really good feel to wear. No jabs form hard-edged kit in the pack. It curves to match the natural inclines of the back, and sits nicely in the lumber region.

The back section of the pack can expand from around 40cm (16") to a whopping 60cm (22") because of the top of the back part of the pack is actually a loop backed insert,and a matching hook-field within the pack body itself. I had some trouble getting this quite right, as the broad sheets of hook and corresponding loop were only too happy to lock tight, but I managed to shoe-horn it into the best fit for me too.

This 40cm (16") part, which houses the Fiberforge insert, can be moved up and down, allowing the wearer to customise the placement of the pack, and by adjusting the webbing held by the tri-glide sliders on the shoulder straps, the perfect fit is easy to maintain.

This fits in with Mystery Ranch's resolve to solve the problem of packs not fitting properly over body armor because of the increase in relative torso size wearing armor creates. Being able to adjust the harnessing to account for this increase in size greatly enhances the stability and comfort of the pack when wearing armor.

Couple this with their Cinch Strap, and you have a pack system that will suit any body type, in or out of full kit.

I'm a chronic over-packer, so having a small capacity pack, with only two 3x3 PALS/MOLLE fields is part of my 12 step recovery process, but I like to think I am achieving my goals of remaining Equipped, without being someone who gets train services halted. I have put a few pouches on the outside of the pack, and I'm adjusting my load out in those, ad well as internally. One thing Ive noted is that even the "wings" where the shoulder straps meet the pack are padded, its a delight to wear as a result of these little thoughts, and whilst nothing from Mystery Ranch is cheep, they are made to be effective, and last.

I've found I really like the narrow silhouette of this design, being long and tall, it avoids the over-hang that other packs have given me, meaning I'm right and ready to duck and weave, getting in and out of where I need to go, be that in a busy laboratory, a crowded train, droid evasion in ventilation shafts or long forgotten command bunkers. 

Review: Platatac - OC spray Pouch MkIV

As I mentioned in my LD-60 flashlight review, I mentioned that I lost a bunch of stuff when my car was broken into. One thing I lost was my Hexbright v1 torch too which I kept in a Platatac ASP pouch.

So, when my replacement Hexbright came in the mail, I needed a new pouch for it, and I had noted that the ASP (expandable baton) pouch didn't quite fit the light, being a little too long, allowing the light to be accidentally switched on.


I popped into the Platatac retail shop with my new Hexbright, and the guys helped me out wiuth a better fitting pouch. This is the OC spray Pouch Mk IV.

The pouch is around 15cm (6") in overall length, and 5x5cm (2"x2") at the base it fits the Hexbright really well. The pouch is fitted with a press-stud closure as well as a 50mm webbing pull tab for good grip and release. This is a lot quieter than a patch of hook and loop, and less bulky than a Fastex clip. The 500d Codrura body is taped and double stitched which gives all its high stress points extra strength.
 

The top of the pouch is open, which keeps the light (or your OC spray, if thats what you're packing) in place, but gives you access by swiveling the lid out of the way, without popping the press stud. A grommet in the bottom of the pouch give you drainage, for those quick jaunts into bodies of water that happen from time to time when you live adventurous lives.

Equipped with the standard PALS/MOLLE fittings that all of the Platatac pouches. I use this as a belt pouch by fitting the tab through the second MOLLE loop, giving you a quite wide, but very secure belt loop. It has a fair amount of travel on a regular belt, but couple it with the loops of a belt like the Platatac SICC belt and you have a rock solid platform for your light (or, you know, OC spray). I'm allergic to capsicum, so I try to avoid pepper spray. This is a solid utility pouch, and if you have an odd shaped or sized item, I recommend taking it into a shop, asking for advice.

Review: Fenix - LD60 flashlinght

I was unfortunate enough to have my RAV4 broken into out the front of my house in December, and lost a bunch of kit that I had, both in the back, in a jumbled heap, and also in and around the front seats. I had my Platatac MAC, fully laden from an event I had been at emptied, but left behind, and a variety of other things taken, It was quite unnerving, as it had happened as I slept not 10 m away.

One of the things I lost was my most excellent Fenix TK-51 light, and I reached out to the good folks at Fenix and LEGear. They put me onto the folks at G8 who listened to my sad story and helped me select a new light to replace it. I wanted to try one of their newer models but wanted to get something portable and powerful. The LD-60.

The LD-60 certainly meets my requirements. Measuring up at 15.5cm (6.1") long and 4.5cm (1.8") in diameter around the body, 6.25cm (2.5") at the head and 360g (12.8oz) (excluding batteries). Lighter and smaller, the LD-60 fits nicely in a variety of pouches, although it comes with one of its own. The all-round build is more conventional than the teardrop big-circle/little circle configuration of the TK-51, and the triplet of Cree XM-L2 (U2) LEDs (with a lifespan of 50,000 hours each) which are in turn powered by either three 18650 rechargeable Li-ion batteries or six 3V CR123ALithium batteries. Even more exciting is that the three battery wells can accommodate one, two or three batteries and still power the light.

Eco

The circuit design also includes reverse polarity protection guards against improper battery installation for those in-the-dark battery changes, as well as digitally regulated output which maintains constant brightness, regardless of battery charge levels.

The LD-60 has the same kind of stepping power settings as the TK-51, with Eco: 30 Lumens (150 hours runtime) which barely lights up an outdoor setting, but OK for indoors or right at your feet. Low: 160 Lumens (29 hours runtime) has a very gentle effect outdoors. You can see, without dazzling yourself. Mid: 500 Lumens (9 hours runtime), which is the first setting that has any use at seeing at a distance, or broad areas.

Low

 High: 1500 Lumens (3 hours runtime) casts a very significant light, illuminating a whole street clearly and lastly, Turbo: 2800 Lumens (1 hour, 30 min. runtime). This is like a hand-held sun. Or at least a car's headlights.

It also boasts a 460 m (1,509') beam distance which I tested by walkign to the end of a breakwater in the Port Phillip Bay, and happily illuminated the houses on the foreshore, some 400 m away, easily on Turbo mode.

Medium

The light also has an "instant-Strobe" function, activated by holding the single button for 3-4 seconds. The strobe alternates between two different frequency of flashes and is both off-putting and attention getting. They are pulsed at the 2800 lumen setting, and are not good to look at.

Not good at all.  Which is excellent.

High

The switching between the settings is achieved by first powering on the light, with a brief hold of the power button, and then single presses to stage up the light from Eco all the way to Turbo. Similarly, powering the light off is by a two second hold.

The built in circuitry also has a "memory" state, recalling the last power-setting the light was used in, to give you immediate functionality for repeat usage needs, as well as a heat-damage auto-limiter.

It does get hot. Even with its durable aircraft-grade aluminum casing, and rugged design, the triple LEDs put out a lot of heat. The case itself is 

Turbo

Premium Type III hard-anodized, which gives it a very good anti-abrasive finish and the toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating is protected by being in-set behind the broadly crenelated rim. It comes with a spare o-ring for the gasket seal and with this is waterproof to IPX-8 standard. (2 m (6.5') for 30 minutes) It is also shock proofed for 1m drops. Table-height, don't get any fancy ideas!

The tail cap features two wide lanyard strap holes, and it even comes with a braided cord lanyard to go with it.

All in all, I am thrilled with the LD-60. I must say it is a step up from the TK-51, smaller, neater and less complicated. 

500,000 hits! wow!

Overnight here, I clocked over 500,000 hits recorded on Blogger. (Google Analytics suggests its more like 559,000, which I think counts my FaceBook and Twitter accounts too).

It's been a great run so far, from December 2011 till now, and I have to thank the good folks at Zombie Tools, Snow Lizard, UV PaqLite and Tactical Keychains for re-posting my articles and sending so much traffic my way, the awesome guys at Platatac for always being there and really getting me started in the gear-review field, and David Reader and all the folks at BreachBangClear, RecoilWeb and previously KitUp! as well.

Without the support of these folks, and everyone else who's supported me, I'd not have had the success I have had, and will continue to have. Thanks to all my readers, I hope that it's been fun, informative and thought provoking!

Josh
Be Ready For Anything
be Apocalypse Equipped

Review: TacticalKeychain - TiMaG Paracord system

Not only do I love titanium, and magnets, but also paracord, so when Brad Martin of Tactical Keychains put up a KickStarter project that combined all three, I jumped onboard. I have been collecting the Tactical Keychain range for a while now, with the classic WTF tool (and its variants) as well as the larger cousin, the Large WTF but also the very functional TiKeY key-keeper set, the very crafty TiPiK lockpicks and most recently the also magnet equipped TKMB pen.

The TiMaG project however has been one I haven't reported on for some time, even though I've had these little magnets on my person for quite some time (as astute readers may have noticed, as they sit on my pocket-keychain tool ring).

Billed as magnetic push-pins, and even as "the most overbuilt magnets in existence", these little milled Grade 5 titanium plugs, each with a 2.5kg (5.5lbs) draw neodymium-iron-boron magnet built into the plug. Three channels cut into the sides of the plugs allow you to grip, or or even fit them with o-rings (7/32" ID x 11/32"OD x 1/16"C) for even better grip.

As push pins, they work fantastically, fridge-doors, white-boards, car body. Metal surfaces are just the ticket.

 The standard TiMaGz have the magnet's polarity set in one direction so they repel each other, for ease of manufacture but the Paracord system TiMaG's are created with 50% N 50% S polarity, so they will stick together. (just like the unfortunately fictional MagHook) .

Where the TiMaG's come in handy in a survival situation might seem a little obscure, but with some lateral thinking, a myriad of options arise: Dead drops of keys, papers and the like, either held by the magnet, or attached through the drilled paracord channel.

 I have one threaded through the steel cable of my bundle of pocket keychain tools, meaning I can stick them to a surface and access them, or have my Jil Lite Constel lantern light up my space. I've used the paracord loop to allow me to dowse for dropped items, screws, bolts, knives, needles. 

All manner of ferromagnetic needfuls of a certain weight can be "harvested". The key thing is your imagination, and the contact area you can manage with the TiMaG. Even though the magnets are rated at 2.5kg, I found that the sides and even top of a 450g can of spaghetti needed some finesse to retain a positive lock.



For simple packages, like papers, a spare key, or even say a Oscar Delta - Deep Carry Tube these are an excellent system for anyone. More advanced uses, well, you take your chances, but they are a damn well made set of mini-tools, and I love the aesthetics.

Be sure to check out Mike's NEW Kickstarter, the all new, updated WTF2.0 and TiStiK combo, I'm already a backer, and looking forwards to seeing what they're like to use.

Home Front: Ikea as a bug-out location

In the past, I have discussed several different situations where relocating from the relative security and comfort of home might be useful or needed for your ongoing safety and well-being. I don't live in an especially rugged house, but it's what we can afford, and it's in a very good neighborhood. House-hopping to one our better equipped neighboring properties is an option we've discussed, in the event of a bug-in situation in a fall of society type event. I've also covered some of the strategies and philosophies regarding sheltering from fall-out and CNBR type events. Given where I live is rather close to the Port Phillip Bay, sea level rise and storm surge type events are a more likely type of natural event that would cause us to bug-out. I've investigated the suitability of a self-storage facility as a quiet, out of the way place to dig-in, and even discussed the relative security of major infrastructure facilities like a hospital.

But today, I'm going to discuss the relative utility and safety of bugging out to another kind of location, dear to my The main showroom, with its labyrinth of lounge rooms, kitchens and bedrooms is situated on the second level, at my local Ikea, which is itself two stories up, above a dual-layer car-park. The warehouse starts our under the showroom, but also runs beside it, and stretches three to four stories up. Stairwells and escalators give main entrance to the facilities, as well as lift wells, but the broad concrete construction is fairly stark. Exits are clearly marked, as per whatever construction codes that must be adhered to, but I also noted that there not too many "other ways in". heart. Ikea!

 Tall plate glass windows faced some walls, the rest were enclosed. Skylights dotted the majority of ceilings, allowing natural lighting. Exposed wiring and piping throughout the facility gives a clear indication of the infrastructure, and adds a sense of space.

There is loot, so much loot. Essentially, whole houses can be fitted out by what is in stock at Ikea, so as far as establishing a livable space, there is so much to choose from, and room to do so. Big spaces are hard to heat however, and leaks in the roof could make for a lot of cold wet concrete flooring on exposed levels.Being raised up two floors from ground level gives you a lot of clearance for the "livable" areas, assuming you don't have tectonic collapse to worry about. Lots of concrete and little to no fuel (other than stock) in the construction means it is pretty fireproof.

There are a lot of resources to be had at an Ikea, and our local one is pretty well put together. The concrete ramps and stairwells would be hard to blockade and fortify easily, but that's the price one pays for accessibility in a pre-Apocalypse shopping center.

It's not inconceivable to me that an Ikea could be converted into a reasonably livable village for a small community. It's not a fort, by a long shot, but it is a stocked piece of real-estate, and even comes with more than just Allen keys, these days. A small restaurant and deli section offer only limited edibles, and there are only limited spaces for indoor crop growing, but plenty of materials for glasshouses.Remember that other people might have the same idea, however, and might not want to share.

Something to consider when you are next at a big center like this; look around, check the exits, look for structural flaws and the resources on hand ... You never know where or when you might need to hole up...