A place for me to review the various rugged, nifty and needful kit that I've accumulated, for every-day preparedness in the event of accident, disaster or world-shifting end-times Apocalypse, be it zombies, triffids or Mayan divide-by-zero errors.
I was heading home from work, and I went past this vehicle, parked in the parking lot entrance of an apartment block, and I was so impressed that I wanted to snap a few pictures and tell you what I thought about it. There has been so much done to the set-up that I couldn't even tell what the original rig under it was, but it has a fully enclosed tool and storage locker suite, with four lockable cupboards, two of which were vented, possibly to house pig-dogs or some such. Big off-road tires, with two spares on the back, as well as dual front and back dynema cable-winches, and a heavy-duty jack .
An awning canopy which looks like it might be a full tent version was fitted to the roof, as well as a roof-rack full of camping and bedding gear like bed-rolls. Packs set to the back of the spare tires give even more storage, though probably not for anything too valuable. Might even be solar shower reservoirs. Extra LED lights, running-boards, a snorkel, a big cow-pusher and a heavy duty suspension upgrade finish off what looks to be a very impressive off-road and off-grid setup. It made me envious!
My own little Toyota Rav4 AWD is rather soccer-mom in comparison. Given that I don't do much off-roading, other than getting to and from some pretty family-friendly camping sites and the occasional trip to the snow, I don't really have much regular excuse for a more workhorse set up, other than in the interests of preparedness. Family utility won out when I got this vehicle. That said, I do keep a variety of useful and important kit stowed away in its Millennium Falcon like storage bays:
First Aid kits, my in-the-car Bug-Out-Bag,
a pretty comprehensive tool-bag, rain-gear, Hi-Vis gear, oil, fishing
rods, jumper-leads, a hatchet, some really neat collapsible fishing
poles and a tackle box, as well as my trusty Stetson all live stowed
away ready for any emergency that comes up. I also have a Hercules Off-road Recovery kit, which isn't pictured. I also have two removable roof-racks, which strap on to the top, through the door-frames, and give me instant top-side storage when I have even more to load.
These originally came to let me haul my AquaYak tandem kayak, but have been invaluable camping and both salvage and shopping. Given the size of our family, I often ponder that I would have been better served with a people mover, but the Rav4 has served me well. The boot by itself is spacious and lets us haul a whole lot more than you might expect. It would be awesome to one day have a decent rough-riding, off-road, Mad Max worthy vehicle, and I know one of my friends recently got an ex-Army Land Rover Defender which will make an excellent bush-basher, so I know its possible.
I caught the scent of a new hardcore multi-tool being crowd-sourced on Kickstarter. Contacting the designer, Stewart Yeoh , I got some pictures to share with you, and the text behind the ideas.
I've covered a couple of tools like this in the past; the famous Crovel, the ubiquitous e-tool , and the Bosse Tools shovel. Then there are the Dead-On Superhammer and the Stanley FUBAR. Stewart put a very thorough description of the SPARtool up on the Kickstarter, so this is going to mostly be a repeat of his words. So, here they are:
Open a cold bottle of something refreshing after all that work!
A common gripe with multi-tools is that many of their mechanisms are awkward and difficult to use, and inferior to a dedicated tool for the job. We strive to create a design that shifts smoothly and safely between functions, and is comfortable for all its uses.
Shovel
The SPARtool features a 6"x 8" shovel head with integrated chopping edge, saw blade, and bottle opener. The 1075 carbon steel and Zytel handle is topped with a flat pry bar, hammer, and 4" pick that functions as a handle for digging and sawing. the total tool length is 22", and the weight is 2 lbs 15 oz.
Shovels derive much of their strength through smoothly transitioning concave and convex geometry, which distributes stresses evenly and allows them to be thin and light.
The SPARtool shovel reflects these principles in its shovel head design. Sturdy tempered carbon steel provides the cutting edge, which is both hard enough to hold an edge, and tough enough to absorb impact. The face is gently curved to increase the angle of repose of loose soil, and gather more in each scoop. Our shovel provides the foundation for other tools while remaining an efficient digging machine.
Axe
One side of the hardened and tempered steel shovel head is ground scary sharp, giving a generous 9-inch cutting surface. When used against small branches the thin edge acts like a machete, passing through with minimal resistance. When employed to split logs, the curvature of the shovel head acts more like an ax, forcing the wood apart cleanly. The edge of the shovel is carefully aligned parallel along the center of the handle, creating the most direct transmission of force, and reducing the chance for dangerous glancing blows.
Saw
Sometimes a chopper is not the right tool for a job. When you need to make a clean cut, separate bones in game, or neatly trim pipe or tubing a saw is the answer. Saws are often one of the weakest links in multi-tools due to disregard for their mechanical and design principles. Our saw teeth are an aggressive 4/inch, 60° tooth layout, cut at a 15° rake. Our saw is laid out as a crosscut saw, with a 15° fleam and a wide alternating offset tooth pattern to clear a wide kerf. Once again the saw edge is parallel to the handle to allow pure single axis motion.
Hammer and Pick
Our 1.5" hammer head provides a large and forgiving striking surface; while its thick plate steel construction makes damaging it a near impossibility.
The 4 inch pick spike can break hard earth and rocks, forcefully open padlocks, and might save your life if the zombies ever do decide to rise. The curved pick also serves as a convenient and comfortable handle when digging or sawing. The top end of the SPARtool is inspired by the Halligan bar, a tool used by firefighters and first responders for forcible entry and rescue. We have maintained the layout so that Halligan techniques can be used with the SPARtool.
The SPARtool handle ends in a flat pry bar with a rounded, shepherds-crook curve. Useful not just for prying open doors or crates but also pulling nails, splitting wood, chiseling, and other demolition tasks. The improved bottle opener now fits a variety of sizes, and the 0.25" plate steel construction will never wear out.
On every pocket and key chain multi-tool I have ever owned the second most used item is always the bottle opener. Maybe I just like beer, but this tool was a necessity to me.
The SPARtool sheath is built from 1050 denier ballistic nylon with MOLLE-compatible strapping and belt loop. The cutting surfaces on the shovel head are protected by a nylon and Kydex sheath which is fully detachable from the backbone of the sheath. The cutting surfaces of the prybar and pick are similarly protected with a Kydex guard, and are freely detachable with secure snaps. When in use, the cover guard for the opposite end is left in place and protects the user from accidental injury.
So, it's a great looking tool, and certainly covers a whole bunch of options; a shovel, an axe, a saw, a pry-bar, a pick-axe and a hammer. It looks like a really serious and well put together tool. I can see a whole bunch of applications for both survival, breaching and entry, and even disaster survival. You'd do well to look at it and perhaps add one to your collection too.
This is an awesome little fire-starter that I have backed on Kickstarter, and was lucky enough to receive a prototype to share my thoughts on.
The FireCone is a tunable alcohol burner that is operable for starting fires, igniting barbeques, emergency heating, or just holding a candle in style. It will burn a bunch of different liquid fuels; alcohol gel,70% isopropyl alcohol, BioEthanol, Methanol, and denatured alcohol (methylated spirits).
The principle of the thing is that there are two pieces, the base and the cone. Liquid fuel is added to the base, and when lit, convection and conductive heat act to continually vaporise and drive the fire. The scalloped notches in both the base and the cone allow the operator to adjust the amount of air that feed inside the cone, allowing the FireCone to be tuned, just as you would a Bunsen Burner.
The internal cavity is the primary fuel reservoir but the external ring also works well, it holds around 30mL of fuel in total. The cone and the base are both textured, which both aids the wicking properties but also gives better surface area for gripping and moving it around when adjusting the flame. The cone part can even be inverted to offer even more burning surface area, but this eliminates the very specifically engineered convection currents you get when it is in its "volcano" configuration.
Here's some wood pyrochemistry for you: Wood ignites at between 190oC (374oF) and 260oC (500oF) by producing volatile gases. Around 590oC (1,100F), the volatile gases ignite when mixed with oxygen. The more oxygen a fire gets, the cleaner and hotter it burns, which is where the venting of the FireCone come in to effect.
As wood reduces to charcoal the temperature potential increases and some of the best wood stoves achieve temperatures up to 1095oC (2,000oF). As a woodstove starter the Firecone has been designed to survive those temperatures.
There are four metal options of the FireCone, bronze and titanium, investment cast in Oregon, and a high-carbon cast steel and a stainless steel model, cast in Korea. the fine investment cast detail (like a map of Oregon, the lettering on the bottom and just the quality of the finish and its unprecedented durability make it something worth admiring as art, as well as being super functional.
The biggest difference between stainless and carbon models is the rusting. Carbon models will develop a surface rust in an oxidized reddish brown pattern, whereas stainless doesn’t rust. There is always the fear with stainless steel that it could get brittle after many fire cycles, but the testers and manufacturers haven't been able to break one, nor could I.
They have been left in woodfires fire at least 50 times, run over by a truck, and then hit with a 35 ton wood splitter. Apparently with a little wire brush work or rub it in the sand the patina finish is incredible, I look forwards to seeing that myself…. but the carbon model will form surface rust. I'm going to season mine as I would any of my cast iron cookware. It may smoke a bit when I start them, but it will be cleaner to store.
Designed as a virtually indestructible alcohol burner that is tunable to start fires or make heat without smoke, soot or ash, he FireCone certainly lives up to all expectations. The fact that the adjustable inlet ports that provide tuning of the flame to various fuels and burning conditions is a real delight, and gives you considerably more control over your fire, without sacrificing the superb robustness of a two part cast metal tool. I'd barely even count it as "moving parts" as far as maintenance goes. Even with the base alone you get great utility but don't get a tunable flame. I can see it working as a base to cook off, and when inverted, the cone part might just be stable enough to use as a trivet.
As if you need to ask, why a titanium option? Being relatively light when compared to steel, it will heat up faster, and doesn't rust. Titanium withstands more heat and is more thermally stable than steel, which means if you expect to us it in arctic conditions it won't break, whereas carbon or stainless steel can become brittle and runs the risk of shattering.
Bronze is an age old, thermally stable, dense and hard material, making it perfect for rugged camp gear, but it's heavy. The four options break down into the following weights: bronze 780g (1.72lbs), the carbon and stainless (420ASTM) steels 710g (1.58lbs) and titanium a mere 400g (0.89lbs).
A couple of notes. Fire is hot, fire burns. Liquid fuels can slosh, spill and run. Running fire is bad. Always us caution with a liquid fuel and don't explode. Once it's been going the FireCone really heats up and retains that heat, so be advised when you've had it going and want to re-fuel it. The same vaporisation effect that makes it burn so cleanly, also works again t you when refuelling. Depending on your liquid-fuel, the conditions are in and the fuel wood you are trying to light, you may need to do a top up to get a really good burn going, so be aware, and be safe.
I've had a lot of fun trying mine out, burning methylated spirits mostly, but I also tried it out with a slosh of my Overproof (52%) Captain Morgan's dark spiced rum, which burnt with a delightful smell and cheerful light, but with the expected "why is the rum gone?" regrets. I started a little fire with it with no problems, and it certainly lives up to expectations.
The mini-tool pen is milled from 6061 aluminum, sand-blasted finish. The tool itself measures 133.5 mm / and is 12.8 mm in diameter and weighs 46 g (with 5 bits inside).
The bits are S2 tool steel and measure 35.6mm long and 7.1mm in diameter. They weigh a mere 4.5 g apiece. The tool Pen mini comes with 18 bits:
Slotted Bits (Flat): SL1.5, SL2, SL2.5, SL3
Phillips Bits: PH00, PH0, PH1
Hexagon Bits (Hex): H0.9, H1.3, H1.5, H2
Torx Bits (Star): T5, T6, T7
Torx Security Bits: TR8, TR9, TR10
Square Bits: S1
SIM Eject Tool: 0.8
Pentalobe Bits: P2, P5, P6
The classic Tool Pen is made of the same 6061 aluminum, sand-blasted finish as the Tool Pen mini. It does however weigh 93g (with 6 bits inside) and measure up a hefty 150mm in length and 17.5mm in diameter.
Both tools are offered in Snow Silver, Gunmetal and Champagne Gold anodization finishes. I chose gunmetal because of reasons, ha!
The bits for the classic tool pen are 36mm long and 9mm in diameter and weigh 7g each. The bits are not cross compatible between the tools, but given the ranges of the two, thats not really a problem.
The classic tool comes with:
Slotted Bits (Flat): SL3, SL4, SL4.5
Phillips Bits: PH1, PH2
Hexagon Bits (Hex): H2, H2.5, H3, H4
Star Bits: T10, T15, T20, T25
Imperial Hex Bits: H5/64, H3/32, H1/8, H5/32
Robertson / Square Bits: S1, S2, S3
Pozidrive Bits (Pozi): PZ1, PZ2
Both the Tool Pen classic and the Tool Pen Mini feature magnetically closing caps, and a really interesting tool seating and shifting system.
Inspired by “Pop-A-Point” rainbow pen & mechanical pencil, the bits all sit within the tool, in hex-shaped lanes, each nesting into the base of the one above it, and held in place, top and bottom, but a steel ring, much like a press-stud is. You shift the bits by feeding another bit up from the back end, and along they go. Each bit has the sheer support of the hex-shaped tool to support it internally, so they are really effective. You do need a full pen's worth of bits to make them effective, however.
Cut-out windows in one face of the tool allow you to see the contents and order of the bits stored within, using a very clear icon engraved on the side of the bit. The magnets in the caps don't interfere with the bits, although they don't really effectively allow you to store the caps when using the tools.
Between the range of bits offered, and the ease in which they all store, either internally for your most-often used sets, or in the solid, flip-top bit cassettes you can get a pretty wide range of tools in a very dense package with either of these tools, doubly so with both.
This is super useful when traveling, especially overseas, when you might find yourself needing to get into something, fix, repair or open some technology that you can't reliably ask someone else to do so, and having a fully decked out specialty screw-driver set is simply brilliant.
My good friend Spencer of SAR Global Tool put me in touch with a maker-buddy of his, Jeff Busboom of JM Boom Concepts who has a nice eating tool which has just come onto the market. This is the Tritensil.
The Tritensil is made from food grade Nylon 66 which is the same material that Cordura fabrics are spun from, which means that it is not only light weight but virtually indestructible in normal use. These 17cm (6 3/5") long utensils which are 3cm (1 1/4") wide at the head, and 2cm (3/4") wide shaft it seems to be a bit wide in the hand, but comfortably so, at only 20g (0.7oz). Thats a lot of utensil for not much mass.
Tritensil provides the full capabilities of a fork, spoon and knife in a two piece set. Not only are the fork tines protected from damage while nesting inside
the spoon bowl but the very clever design keeps the two Tritensil
pieces snuggly secured to each other, eliminating the tell-tale clink-clank of metal cutlery as well as minimizing the chance of loss.
The spoon/knife portion has ridges along the outside edges when then ride along the internal rails of the fork to for a surprisingly secure combo. The fork tines can stick out a little, but are protected from the twisting/, snagging dangers that plastic-wear often suffers from in packs.
The interlocking design also allows the Tritensil to be configured into
an extended Spork by flipping it around an slotting them together, almost doubling the overall useable length for those
times you may find yourself eating out of a pouch. No more sticky hands and you plumb the depths of a mylar redoubt.
I also like not having to put a utensil down when eating, so doubling it over like this allows you to eat unmolested without dropping your eating tools in the dirt.
The eating tools are equipped with a 4" ruler, as well as a hole for either a lanyard or a slit ring to retain it. The width of the Tritensil makes it ideal to slip into a PALS/MOLLE channel.
The knife will cut steak, the Tritensil will stack and store, its basically a full set of plastic cutlery that will have you covered. When you compare it to even a set such as the Mountain Design Alpha set, it's really a good step up.
For back-country, deepest darkest forests, cliff-side or crowded and sneaky-handed hospital break-rooms meals, you wont go wrong with a set of Tritensil's.
I took a trip with my family to Bali, Indonesia recently to attend my mother's wedding, and it turned out to be an excellent opportunity to put to good use of of the kit that the good folks at Propper had sent me that had been kicking around the bunker.
I wanted something that would keep all my travel documents together, safe and secure and it seemed the perfect fit.
This is the 7X5 Pocket Carry Organizer and here's what I can tell you about it. Fashioned from the same highly durable Cordura that all the Propper packs and bags are made from, and all the fittings are equally sturdy.
Named for its primary dimensions the organizer is 7" x 5" x 2"and has twin zippers which open like a book around its two short sides and one long side. The zipper pulls are silenced by being cord-pulled, to reduce its lines even further.
I really liked the wide loop of webbing that is fitted to the back side, which you might think would get in the way more than would be useful, but it was really good for those long immigration and customs lines, where I'd just as soon not have a handful of passports and tickets waving in the wind but also have a gird firm grip on. It was a long enough loop to be able to hook it over my wrist to give me two-hands free when I needed it. I'm secure enough not to worry about looking like I'm carrying a purse. It'd be a Propper purse, in any case, and that's not shabby at all.
It's no-nonsense lines make for a very unobtrusive package, and I found that it completely vanished into the folds of packs I stowed it in, and also fitted nicely in the cargo pockets of my travel-pants.
The front of the organiser is loop-fronted for adding morale or ID patches. I threw a nice subdued Australian flag on mine, for peace of mind, because it never hurts to get an eye-roll from security and customs ("uuugh, Ahwstrahllians, you go, go!") when you look like I do, some times.
The rear of the organiser has a stow-pocket set high up, perfect for boarding cards and customs forms, and also features two rows and three channel PALS/MOLLE, to either add extra things to, or to secure the organiser to other packs. I didn't see much utility in this though, and other than maybe a pen, I can't see what I'd use the MOLLE for.
Inside the organiser, both faces are loop-filed covered, to affix an internal organiser such as the included 7x5 elastic organizer panel . There are also two thin elastic loops in the seam, great for fitting a pen you'll always find you need to fill in travel forms.
I am usually pretty paranoid about my travel documentation, we have a long standing family history of losing passports, so I am always very cautious of the movement of these documents, so having a safe, secure and most importantly unobtrusive pouch for them was perfect for my wild and wary tribe.
I was sent a cool little knife by the good folks at SOG, and I wanted to get my initial thoughts on it out there. I'm a fan of little knives, because they have a lot more close in utility when doing chores and around-the-bunker tasks. You don't always need a machete to cut into your MRE's, nor a "that's not a knife, this is a knife" to get your point across. Especially if you don't want to cause a scene. Be a gray man, not a rain man .... There is plenty that a 2 inch blade can do, if you've the skill and initiative, so you don't need to feel inadequate when packing a little something. Especially if you're putting it in a boot, or a pack-strap. Save the save on your hip for a tree-chopper.
The SOG Instinct is a compact, wearable fixed blade knife that is made just for those times. This is a little skeletonised blade, that measures a mere 12.2cm (4.8") with a 4.8cm (1.9") blade, with a thickness of 0.4cm (0.16") and it weighs only 31g (1.1oz) and made from a very reliable 5Cr15MoV steel. It comes with a slight clip point, which makes for easy re-sharpening when it comes time, and a molded hard nylon sheath, which is fitted with several mounting options, including an adjustable and reversible belt clip.
This is sweet little blade, and I look forwards to giving it a more through trial in the near future.
I was heading home from work, and I went past this vehicle, parked in the parking lot entrance of an apartment block, and I was so impressed that I wanted to snap a few pictures and tell you what I thought about it. There has been so much done to the set-up that I couldn't even tell what the original rig under it was, but it has a fully enclosed tool and storage locker suite, with four lockable cupboards, two of which were vented, possibly to house pig-dogs or some such. Big off-road tires, with two spares on the back, as well as dual front and back dynema cable-winches, and a heavy-duty jack .
An awning canopy which looks like it might be a full tent version was fitted to the roof, as well as a roof-rack full of camping and bedding gear like bed-rolls. Packs set to the back of the spare tires give even more storage, though probably not for anything too valuable. Might even be solar shower reservoirs. Extra LED lights, running-boards, a snorkel, a big cow-pusher and a heavy duty suspension upgrade finish off what looks to be a very impressive off-road and off-grid setup. It made me envious!
My own little Toyota Rav4 AWD is rather soccer-mom in comparison. Given that I don't do much off-roading, other than getting to and from some pretty family-friendly camping sites and the occasional trip to the snow, I don't really have much regular excuse for a more workhorse set up, other than in the interests of preparedness. Family utility won out when I got this vehicle. That said, I do keep a variety of useful and important kit stowed away in its Millennium Falcon like storage bays: 
First Aid kits, my in-the-car Bug-Out-Bag,
a pretty comprehensive tool-bag, rain-gear, Hi-Vis gear, oil, fishing
rods, jumper-leads, a hatchet, some really neat collapsible fishing
poles and a tackle box, as well as my trusty Stetson all live stowed
away ready for any emergency that comes up. I also have a Hercules Off-road Recovery kit, which isn't pictured. I also have two removable roof-racks, which strap on to the top, through the door-frames, and give me instant top-side storage when I have even more to load. 
These originally came to let me haul my AquaYak tandem kayak, but have been invaluable camping and both salvage and shopping. Given the size of our family, I often ponder that I would have been better served with a people mover, but the Rav4 has served me well. The boot by itself is spacious and lets us haul a whole lot more than you might expect. It would be awesome to one day have a decent rough-riding, off-road, Mad Max worthy vehicle, and I know one of my friends recently got an ex-Army Land Rover Defender which will make an excellent bush-basher, so I know its possible. 
