Horns and mugs.

 I've been really enjoying getting into Viking re-enactment these last few years. Part of this has been to get into the combat aspects, partly the crafting and the culture.  

Part of this is collecting and using period appropriate kit, part of it is becoming comfortable using anachronistic gear. Did you know its quite hard to chug a beverage from a drinking horn unless you tilt it to one side?

I now have three viking style drinking vessels. Two traditional and one more modern.

First up is the very slick and modern Goat Mug.

The Goat Mug is a 16 oz 470mL polypropylene horn shaped take on the classic keep-cup idea. Originally a Kickstarter project, now in full commercial production. It has been a mainstay of my desk since its arrival. With its silicone ring seal screw top and drip and spill proof locking clip, it's made a prominent workplace oddity. The best part is when people ask how it stands up. The molded leather hand-cuff inverts to act as a stand to support the horn with great stability, and protects the hand from hot beverage.  

The Goat Mug comes with a wrist strap and a shoulder sling for ease of carry, that clip to holes in the lid and tip respectively but I've never had much need of either.  I carry mine in my hand or table it in its holder. The seals are good enough to keep in a carbonated beverage and the horn keeps my mugs of tea hot for a lot longer than a similarly sized conventionally shaped mug would. They aren't even remotely period-appropriate but are perfect for adding flair to work or the open-pit bbq pig on spit Thing in the back-yard. The curvature of the inside presents some scrubbing challenges but I'm not phased by some tannin build-up and it's dish-washer safe.

Read the kickstarter Story here.

See their latest ideas here

buy one on Amazon here.

I also have a more traditional bulls horn drinking horn. This 8oz, 250mL capacity horn ( 9oz when filled to the brim upright) natural bull horn has a fine embellished brass rim riveted on and a brass tip fixed to the pointy end. The outer surface is well polished and the insides have been well cleaned and sealed to keep the horn structurally sound after long sessions of ale. The traditional horn has the drawback of not having a stable base to sit it down so once you get started its awkward to set it down till you've emptied your horn. 

I've knocked up a quick stand from some off-cuts for mine and you could always thrust it through your belt at the risk of spillage and wetting your britches. The brass fittings are handsome and lend themselves to adding some cordage as a sling.  It feels nice in the hand and it has a good capacity, and certainly looks the part.  

I personally like to be able to set a drinking vessel down when eating as a joint of meat on the bone can sometimes need two hands and pickled herrings are slippery.

 As i mentioned earlier, when drinking from a horn, its important you tilt the point of the horn downwards or to the side, not out in front or upwards when you drink, or you'll get an unexpected surge and slosh ypur drik all over your face, in your beard and down your chest. Amusing but wasteful and wont impress that sword maiden you've been waggling eybrows at over the fire.

 

 The final horn in my collection of drinking vessels is the "Eleet Original Viking Drinking Horn Mug"

 This elegant tankard has a 20 oz capacity and is fashioned from a worked ethically sourced ox horn in which the point of the horn has been bent back to form the handle / retention grip. The base of the is a colour-matched resin to seal off the mug and the inside is sealed with a 100% food safe non-toxic lacquer on the inside, in order to avoid the real horn odor and to avoid leakage. The exterior part is unpolished, unadorned and is kept real. The tankard feels great in the hand, it looks great and does the job. 

Being a natural product means each one has its own unique pattern and shape, but the true value is that it works. After a long day of swinging axes, hauling gear and arms and setting camp, let alone matching steel with the foeman and all the day to day challenges of the rustic Northman, having a large beverage to hand really brings home what is best in life. The "Eleet original Viking drinking horn mug" fits the bill AND I can set it down on the feasting bench to wrap an arm around someone close whilst feeding. 

 I don't think i'd want to put hot drinks in either of the horn vessels, (be it pine needle tea or the beans of Mocha for structural integrety reasons (hot water softens horn ...), but they're perfect for my home-brewed mead or cider. 

 

Its high capacity, flat base and broad handle make it the most convienient of my horns and mugs and as such keep it in highest rotation.
 

Review: MyMedic - MyFAK

Accidents happen. Burns, cuts, bumps and breaks can come to anyone at any time.  Having a first-aid kit to hand is a vital element to anyones preparedness loadout or lifestyle. Whether you're hiking in the bush, cutting firewood, camping, on a road trip, driving nails in the backyard or hitting pipe in the sandbox you'll want to be able to plug holes and tend to boo-boos to get on with the task at hand. I keep a generic first aid kit in the bottom of my day-bag, and have a small IFAK on my hiking belt, but there are some jobs they just aren't up to and frankly, being stuffed in the bottom of a pack does not make for rapid treatment in a critical situation.

This is where something like the purpose built MyFAK from My Medic comes into its own. Jam-packed with a very comprehensive collection of needful and useful items for treating a variety of ailments and accidental injuries. It does so all encompassed in a tactically minded form-factor. 

 With contents suitable for airway, bleeding, burn, hydration, outdoor safety, sprains and fractures and specialty surgical incident as well as topical treatment, the MyFAK  has packs that caters to both Basic and Advanced First Aid needs. (Available in two different configurations to suit your ability and need).

"By ordering MyMedic First Aid Kits you warrant that you have the required training and authorization to use the medical supplies contained within. MyMedic assumes no liability for their misuse."

  

https://mymedic.com/collections/first-aid-kits/products/myfak-firstaidkit

The 1000D cordura pouch measures 6.5" wide, 7.5" tall and 5" deep, its no slouch. The advanced kit weighs 1275g, the same size basic weighs a mear 975g. The front of the pouch is rigged with 6" of loop field, in 3 2" strips, with a secondary layer of 1" strips straddling these to provide 4 channels of MOLLE attachment, for those of us who like pouches on our pouches or for stowing additional accessories likepens, lights, cyalume sticks or pry-bars. A 1" wide nylon strap runs all the way around the pouch, with a fastex buckle to keep it fully secured to the backing and fully closed> This is especially important as the backing, which features not only two press-stud closure MOLLE straps but the entire back is hook and loop for tear-away capability. a 1" nylon grab handle allows for positive grip and when unbuckled the MyFAK can be torn off your pack, or load bearing gear for ease of access or to pass on to someone who needs it.

The rip-away design makes for ease of access for what is otherwise quite a bulky pouch. being able to get at it without it being strapped to yourself or a pack would greatly improve your ability to get the components you need in a timely and efficient fashion. Crucial in a medical crisis. The fastex clip is no hindrance to access and does a great job in securing the pouch, but it has two easy-grip rubber toggles with medic crosses to pull the oversized zippers open. A lightly hook-and-looped nylon tab acts as a pull tab to assist in pulling the pouch open and holding it spread. Folding down to the front loop fields to stow out of the way when not in use.

The pouches hook field backing also means once removed it can be stuck to other loop-field surfaces at your leisure.

Opening the pouch up reveals its Tri-Fold Design

MyMedic created this pouch to give you quick access to your First Aid Supplies. This tri-fold design makes it easy to see what you need, when you need it.

Working from the innermost layer forwards the front the back panel has three Elastic webbing loops to contain items, a mylar space blanket, a hank of paracord, a cyalume stick and a RATS tourniquet. Behind that are two pockets with bandages, including quick-Clot and a chest seal. The back most pocket has a hook and loop  closure tab to keep it closed until needed.

The middle panel has more elastic webbing securing more bandages, irrigation saline and suture kits. An additional pocket behind the elastic webbing holds a compressed compression bandage.

I'm really impressed with the amount of material squeezed into this kit, both by clever arrangement of pockets but also arrangement of items. I was tempted to reorganise the kit but quickly recognised I wasn't going to get it any better packed or sorted.



The third section of the internals is the zippered mesh lind pocket panel. It is filled with small items; medications, electrolyte sachets, swabs, lotions and gloves. The section is itself a tear-away as well allowing you to pass it over or just get at it without disturbing the rest of your pristine supplies.

Whilst the rest of the kit is full of bandages, burn kits, and hole closers, the medication pouch holds pain killers, anti-inflammatories, anti nausea and anti-dirorrerals and electrolytes. The mesh panel allows the plastic pouch wrapped medications to be rummaged through. Good if you find yourself off-Oregon trail and not fancying dying of dysentery.  The flip side of the medication pouch provides a smooth field for laying out items: bandages, sutures, tweezers and such as you work on your patient, or just as a cover to prevent debris falling in your kit.

So, apart from being jam-packed with all kinds of goodies and needfuls, being well put together as far as design and layout, and having an excellent quick-release and access options go, this is an excellent First Aid kit.

I find it a bit bulky and heavy to put on my person, say on a battle-belt or on a plate carrier, except maybe on the back. Personally I feel it's suitable to go on a pack, or on a dedicated medic's harness. One thing I saw on their webpage and successfully tried myself was fitting  it to the headrest of my drivers-side car seat. Putting it in easy reach for shot-gun or back seat passengers should the need for road-side assistance come up.

Secured by its Molle straps, to the headrest prongs, it can be accessed by its quick release Fastex clip and pulled free by the webbing drag handle. If needed it could then be reattached in an upright position and unfolded to access its components in a secured place for out the door or back seat triage as needed. Perfect for on-the-move treatment. 

I have a Cert 1 in first aid which is basically: bites, breaks, bleeds and burns and I feel the contents and setup of this kit is more than adequate for my needs, and beyond what I'm trained for in its Advanced format, but not beyond my ability in extremis.

Review: Gerber - spork set

I treated myself a while back to a fancy new set of eating tools. Now, I am all for food on a stick, or if needs be, wrapped into a burrito or schwarma, especially when it comes to outoors cooking and eating. Every extra piece of tablware or cutlery you use is one more piece you have to bring, wash and haul back. A stick is good but limiting and eventully marshmallows and sausages loose their luster. Whilst I am also very fond of one-pot/one pan cooking, there are times when a fork and spoon are the right tool for the job, beans, scrambled egg and porridge don't work well on a stick. 

Gerber had an offering that I was keen on. A combi-tool set combining the Gerber Devour set with a plain spoon and spatchula to make a set called the Compleat.

The Compleat is made up of four individual tools; a Deep basin spoon, a long tined spork a spatchula with a serated edge and a multi-tool. the fork, spoon and tool all nest into a slot in the base of the spatchula securely until needed.

The spork has longer tines than im used to on a spork which is a nice change, making it easy to stab food and not drop it and loose it. They aren't yet so long as to be loose stiffness.  

The spoon has a nice straight edged tup, allowing it to scrape the bottom of a bowl or mug to get the last skeriks of food. The dish was deep enough to eat soup with and shovel food into my mouth without bulging out too much when nested. 

Both spork and spoon have a pattern of  stamped into their anodized 7075 T6 Aluminium handles. The spatula component is made of a high temperature nylon with a silicone overmold along the leading edge and one side. One edge has a serrated edge to use as a knife. The  knife isn't great but it'll do and the spatula isn't going to win any awards but it'll flip a pancake and get your eggs over-easy if you're patient. The nifty thing about this tool is that combining the fork or spork with the spatula will create tongs on one way and an extended stirring tool combined longways. Excelent for stirring with your face out of the smoke and for picking sausages out of a pan, respectively. 

 

The spatula's notched ends are directional and prevent the tools from falling apart mid-use. Though the spatula has an arrow molded into it but I routinely try to put them together the wrong way. I think  will scratch arrows into the spoon and spork end surfaces to remind myself in future.

 

I found the metal utensils comfortable to use, did not transfer too much heat to my hand and were certainly sturdy enough to both cook and eat with. 

 

They're also capable of lifting cast iron pots' lids off with ease thanks to both their curved cross-section but also the grip-improving texture lending them strength through engineering. I think I'd prefer the spoon and spork to be titanium rather than aluminium but it works just fine. The spoon/spatula combination tongs work well for fine tasks as well more standard kitchen tong uses. They work just fine ,with the plastic of the spatula providing sufficient "spring" for use, though they lack the "clack-clack" safety test-feature.

 

 

The last component of this set is the utility tool that serves to lock the other tools together. This powder coated steel tool features the following components; bottle opener of obvious utility, a sharp plane-style Veggie peeler, a Serrated cord-cutter and package opener hook/ can-opener and the all important bottle opener. 

 

All-over is sits at 20cm (7.75") long ant weighs in at a mear 65g (2.3 oz) which will neither overload or over encumber any but the most hard-core ultra-light packers.  

 

 

The set comes with Gerber's Limited lifetime warranty, but given its sturdy construction, youd have to be pretty careless with it to need that. The spatchula componant might burn/melt if left too close to your fire for too long, but it worked fine for my cooking needs.

 

Find it here on Amazon:

Cross-Post: DIY Rattlecan Paint Job in Multicam Arid by FDE

Few would argue that good camouflage, used well is both effective and useful. One thing I've noticed if that done poorly it sticks out like a sore thumb. Camo patterns not matched up is one thing, as is not suiting a pattern to fit your surroundings. Another aspect is only doing portions of your kit. But we don't all have the spare currency to custom cerakote or hydro-dip our gear.

The resourceful people over at Fifty Shades of FDE (Flat Dark Earth) have put out a DIY guide for putting multicam style camo paint onto items with spray-paint cans.

• Primary Arms Stencils: MultiTerrain Stensil
• Rustoleum Flat Spray paint in French Beige, Khaki, Dark Taupe, Earth Brown and Green. (This mix for Arid MC)
• Masking Tape
• Newspaper for backing.

They put together a very informative and step-by-step clip on YouTube you should totally check out. Watch as they turn a scary black rifle into innocuous background foliage. Nice!
DIY Rattlecan Paint Job in Multicam Arid by FDE

Review: County Comm - Minnow Gripper

String, rope and string accessories. I like them. One such accessory that caught my eye was the Minnow Grippers offered by gear treasure source County Com.

What are they ? They are tarp clips. Clipping onto tarps to provide an anchor point where grommets don't exist. They can be used to hold onto and fasten plastic sheeting, drop cloths, tarps. canopies, awnings, pool covers, towels, BBQ covers, sails, cables and bags, netting and hunting blinds. All manner of covers you don't want flapping about.

 These clips clamp down on a surface  by means of  a two piece jaw which closes on the surface with friction locks on the back end of the scissor arms, much like those found on locking forceps. The jaws of the Minnow are cross-hatch grooved to provide "teeth" by which it holds fast  to many materials.

Made from molded fiberglass reinforced polypropylene, the Minnow is a dense and sturdy piece. The central pin has a over-hang lip and channel to feed through at full-open position, otherwise holding the clip together with little or no lateral movement. The jaws themselves open wide enough for clamping materials up to ¼" thick and the molded locking teeth have 6 positions to allow it to cinch down onto material in increments for a very secure bind.

At the back of the jaws, behind the "teeth" where cables can be secured without damage from  the teeth. This gap can also hold paracord to create a perpendicular attachment on a running cord.  Either in the locked teeth or in the gap behind the teeth in a sliding configuration.   The material is reported to crack resistant to 35° below zero (-37C). it is chemically stable and resistant to most solvents and marine conditions.

The tail end of the Gripper features a hefty hook on each arm for capturing cordage. the tips of the hooks are double wide, matching the maximum width of the Gripper. This means it is stable and flat on it's side. the base of the hook features a hole which is a perfect match for standard paracord, but will also accommodate thicker cords, especially if they compress a little. The hooks are 15mm deep and are angled, providing a depth of capture to reduce slippage of cord coming loose in vigorous flapping.

The twin tail hooks allow cordage to be looped over, one, the other or both hooks as the need arises or situation permits. Fixing one guy line or two or rigging  a single cord perpendicularly from the clamped material. The twin hooks also allow for some creative knot-free attachment, not unlike those possible with the Fishbone and Piranha knotless ties. Forces pulling back on the Minnow will act to tighten their grip , with an action not unlike squeezing on a pair of pliers.

The locking teeth of the Minnow Gripper first engage at around 9mm (4/10") at the tip which is about 6mm at the " back" of the jaws. That puts the maximum thickness of material they can close on, but each Minnow Gripper is purported to hold 175 lbs (80kg) whist only weighing 0.35oz (10g).

I haven't tried this for max weight, but the sail-cloth awnings I strapped down with it flapped a fair bit in the wind overnight without coming loose. That seems fit-for-purpose to me. Not a single Minnow came loose, in several configurations. I'm quite pleased with the utility, form factor and ruggedness of The Minnow

 

They come in two colour options: Tactical black and Coast Guard Orange. I opted for dont-loose-me orange for my 8. (two tarps worth) half od which I store clamped to my redoutable Mystery Ranch 1DAP  it's my regular day to day and Get Home Bag  so it seemed apt to keep some there too.

Review: Heavy Cover canteen and mug set

 As well as lights and blades I seem to collect bottles. I like to have my own reusable and reliable hydration source to hand. In my EDC bag, my desk at work, in my car and so forth. My usual go to bottles are my wide mouth Nalgene bottles and my venerable SIGG bottle.

Each have their benefits and drawbacks. Nalgene bottles are made from the sturdy Tritan plastic. Light and shatterproof, with a high capacity and easy-fill wide-mouth. They aren't fireproof so cant be used to boil water or cook in. The SIGG bottles are aluminium with an internal plastic coating and a finely threaded cap I've found to be delicate and prone to thread stripping. The Aluminium bottles are sturdy but ding and damage easily. They also do not support cooking or boiling due to the lining.


A solution I found is the Heavy Cover US GI Style Titanium Canteen Mess Kit. Over the last  hundred years or so  the US GI style canteen mess kit has served millions of military service members as well as millions of outdoor enthusiasts. Originally made from tin, aluminium or stainless steel or plastic, the Heavy Cover model replaces this with titanium. The kit is comprised of a 37oz (1.1L) canteen with Tritan Plastic and Titanium Canteen Cap options and a nested Canteen Cup 23.7 oz (0.7L) and lid, also titanium.


Combining time tested design with the high-strength to weight ratio material results in a light weight yet durable mess–kit. Perfect for those counting grams on the trail and people who break gear, like me. Both Canteen and cup can be heated and used to boil water or cook food.

Made from 0.5 mm thick titanium,  the Canteen with Tritan Cap weighs a slight 6 ounces (172 grams) and the titanium Cup Lid weighs a mere 4.8 ounces (132 grams). As well as being exceptionally  light, titanium has the advantage of being biocompatible (BPA Free, nontoxic to the human body) provides a non-porous, non-stick material for easy clean up when cooking. being thin walled and a rapid heat conductor , less gas/fuel is needed and you get a  faster boil time than with steel or other pot materials. It is anti-corrosive and will not rust. The mug has folding wire handles to assist in cooking and handling when hot.

The titanium cap of the canteen features a wide, thick thread to ensure ease of opening and removal as well as maintaining  a tight seal and resistance to incidental damage.  The lid itself features a titanium D-loop for clipping to a belt or pack, dummy-cording or perhaps even suspending over fire to boil water (beware steam and pressure build ups!) The canteen neck and mouth are quite wide which make for easy filling and drinking. The titanium cap sits quite high above the lip of the opening, I don't know why. It is hollow and floats, unlike the tritan lid which sinks like a rock. The titanium lid has a flat-folding wire lid loop for retention or for use as a float.

The canteen has a jutting rib around its mid-line which corresponds to the lip of the cup, to seat it. when nesting the cup lid is obviously left out, but I found that any pouch i could fit the canteen and cup in will also fit the lid in the bottom, ready to deploy to be a lid your cup for bean or noodle cooking. I don't know wat purpose that rib serves, except to possibly prevent rattle between mug and canteen on maneuvers.

I found the canteen had an off-flavor from manufacturing so I needed to give it a good wash and rinse out. Kraken rum worked nicely. The mug didn't have any such problem and cooked several meals without issue, and relatively non-stick and was easily cleaned.

Over-all I am really happy with this set, they're light, rugged as all get up, cook well and not bulky at all. I really like the traditional form factor and compact design for considerable volume capacity.

Find one on Amazon here:

HomeFront: Ordning hobostove hack

I like fire, almost as much as I like blades and lights.. but I do not like being on fire. Which is why I like fireplaces and stoves. Whilst it is easy enough to dig a hole or set up a ring of rocks, sometimes a purpose built tool suits the purpose even better. there are times when the full-blown  BBQ is overkill, especially if I hiking and camping.

Systems like the Fire- Box are purpose built and designed expressly to suit this need but as it turns out it is possible to quite easily make your own. I decided to make my own using an IKEA Ordning cutlery rack I had seen on line. The Ordning rack is a 12cm diameter,  18cm tall  stainless steel cylinder 180g with an inwardly rolled lip. The sides are perforated by six sets of 1 cm holes in a 3 x 6 grid. The base also has holes. These holes arced these holes act as the vents  for the fire. In order to improve air flow, I decided to put feet on mine, so I fitted it with quarter inch hex bolts I have fixed with a nut and a washer at the four corners and in the center for stability.

I then used a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a door into the side, using the holes as a guide. I cut a 3 x 4 hole hole and folded it inwards from the bottom. This hole became the feed hole, to feed the fire whilst a pot or pan was on top of the fire. Folding the lip inwards provides a platform for the fuel and stability when feeding larger fuel items. I also cut 8 notches in the lip of the cylinder in three pairs in one direction and one set perpendicular to those. These notches are for steel support wires I cut to size to act as a grill and pot support. I used welding rod for these wires as I had plenty.

Lighting the fire was a simple matter of filling the stove with tinder and woodchips and lighting it which I did both through the feed hole and also through the air holes. With just twigs and woodwork off-cuts, I got a nice little fire very quickly and noticed the feet kept the fire off the wet ground which helped it burn. Once it got burning I noticed the smoke coming out of the holes was igniting giving a more complete burn and rendering it almost smokeless. I suspect the metal walls were igniting the flammable wood gas. This increased the efficiency of the stove and reduced tell-tale smoke trail effects.

Putting the grill wires on a provided a stable platform on which to boil water for tea in my enamel mug, but a billy or pot or kettle could have fit just as well. The stove put off some nice radiant heat from just sticks and off cuts, burned very clean and down to basically ash. Once it burnt down I flipped the grill wires off and upended the stove to knock the last of ashes out. Popping the wires in the stove it was cool enough to pick up and pack in minutes.

Its a very lightweight system and requires attention to feed it as it only has a small fuel capacity but it was really easy to use and make. I will think about some kind of cloth bag to put it in to keep the soot off things and keep the wires in place. I look forward to experimenting with cooking on it and seeing how little fuel I can get away with to make a whole meal. 

One of the things I like about this design was the lack of sparks. Even with a quite a strong cross breeze, the stove let few to no sparks escape, the network of holes leading to quite complete combustion as previously noted which in turn reduces fire-risk. I like this because it means reduced risk of fire spreading and less effort being required in setting up fire -breaks, reducing environmental impacts and set up time. Feeding a tent peg through the holes in the base could lend additional stability and with its feet, the stove could be set in a depression or hole to further reduce its impact and also exposure without smothering the fire.

Video if it in action.