Review: King's Adventure Stove

 During the opening rounds of Covid lockdowns in the summer months of 2020 it occurred to me that disruptions might linger on till at least winter. Though I live in a temperate city, which rarely dips below freezing, I wanted to ensure I had a source of heating for both warmth and cooking that was off-grid. I have a variety of BBQ's both charcoal and LPG (I also acquired spare LPG cylinders). At the time
I even had a cast iron wood-stove I was restoring. I had seen portable wood stoves for ages and even camped near some on occasion and thought they would suit my projected need quite nicely. Bigger than a backpack pot-stove but not as big as one of my kettle BBQ's or the cast iron one. I wanted something I could use to burn household and reclaimed timber if needs be, more so than logs and branches that an open-fire pit might be used for. Portability was also an important consideration.  

The ads I'd been seeing pointed me towards https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/ which seemed to be a reliable source for robust camping kit. Kings Premium Camp Oven Stove | Wood-Fired BBQ | Enclosed Firepit | Steel Construction | For Camping or Backyard Use - 4WD Supacentre

It seems the particular model I chose is out of production and the current models are square sided, rather than rounded, but this plays very little part in its utility as a camp-stove. 

The curved sides of the stove feature a welded bar on one side, acting as a hanger for tea-towels, tongs of what have-you, for drying and keeping out of the dirt and off the stove itself. It also acts as a barrir to stop things touching the hot sides of the stove. 

 

Stove pipe sections all fit inside the stove for transport and storage. 

On the other side of the stove a similar bar forms a hinged handle for carryig the stove, briefcase style (before setting up). It could also be used for hanging things, but more care needs to bwe taken as its stand-off distance from the belly of the tove is far less than the fixed bar on the other side.  

The three legs of the stove are hinged and fold flush to the belly when in transit, held in place with pins, each with their own retaining chain. The legs each have a round foot, each with a couple of holes drilled through for tent pegs to secure the stove in place. 

The legs, once unfolded, are held in place by those same retaining pins as used for storage. The rigid stove-pipe sections are easily fitted to the stove-body, which features a small section proud of the cook-top for ease of mounting. Its worth noting that one section of pipe features a flue control valve, just a simple spinning disk on a rod that can be angled to choke down the fire as needed.  The five stove-pipe sections do not feature a spark arrestor, or an end-cap, but it has been easy enough to make one with a re-purposed soup-can and a couple of tent pegs. With all five pipes connected the whole stove tops out at 2.45m (~8'), which puts smoke well out of the way, but well worth staking the feet to avoid any tippage. The stove top measures  45 x 24 cm (1'5" x 9 3/4") and has a trio of divots pressed in for rigidity, as well as a 15 cm (3") diameter removable burner lid, with retaining notches and a recess for a hook to pull it off the fire. 

The door is a simple circle, hinged on one side, with a notched latch to secure the fire closed, or cracked open for air-flow. 

The door is also 15 cm (3") diameter, which along with the internal length of the stove at 43cm (17") or so, limits the sice of the wood it is loaded with, but not unreasonably so. A small curved ash-lip is also provided, and slots in under the door to catch and embers that spill whilst filling or stoking the fire. It also provides a nice rest for roasting foods on a stick, in the stove. 

With the burner lid off you can get quite a a roarimg fire going, especially good once the fuel has all caught and the flue is drawing any smoke through. This lets you build a good bed of coals to cook with. You - could- cook directly on the stove top as the bare metal gets quite hot, but I prefer to put a pan or pot on, to assist with cleaning. I've found that the surface does rust if left in the open so have taken to oiling it, as I would to season a cast iron pan which has helped protect it. Obviously this can lead to a bit of smoke as it burns on, but well worth it to keep the stove in good condition and leaves a great finish.

 

A piece of good fortune came in the form of the thick walled cast iron pot that I salvaged and restored fits perfectly into the burner lid opening, which both speeds the hating process but eliminates any smoke escaping. Its important to keep an eye on the cooking progress as with any wood fired stove, it can develop hot spots. 

Whilst obviously not a hiking stove, all together in its canvas carry bag the stove is quite portable, with space inside to carry the stove sections as well as a couple of fire poker tools. 

I dont have a hot-tent, nor much desire to do much cold -weather camping, but if I did, i'm certain this stove would make a fine addition to camp. My famly certainly enjoy the occasional fire-side, back-yard gather, without the concerns of smoke in the face or embers blowing that an open fire would bring. 

Whether its kranskies on-a-stick, a pot of beans, that old classic marshmallows, or a simple pot of tea, there is somehing magical about having your own fire. 

Easy enough for littlest-coyote to set up on their own, compact enough to throw in the back of the bug-out vehicle. 

Retrospective: Long Term Plans (pt. 2 of Terrorists! Plague! Zombies!)

  Going back in time for a bit, I went back and reviewed my old LiveJournal (June 2003 - September 2017) and found this gem I thought I'd share here too. Written in 2003, in the halcyon "before times, pre-Covid, pre-"The Walking Dead", I pondered what to do in a "28 Days Later" style disaster, in two parts. Much has changed in the 20 years since I first wrote this. I have two children now, and the very world has changed. Here are my un-edited "long term plans"Circa 2003. Enjoy.

Short term plans post here:

• Oct. 27th, 2003 at 2:09 PM

the story so far
LONG TERM PLANS


been a bit too busy to do much more on this until now, I had a good talk with arcanumveritas on the topic too . .so here goes

High security habitation:
as noted originally, I would go for a construction site (say a five of six story office building or some such), which I could easily modify to be "skilled climber only" access (once again assuming the zombies can't climb, only scramble.
This site could be readily fortified in the long term, (lots of raw materials and equipment just lying around. My ideal site would have a couple of buildings neighboring, from which a rope traverse could be strung (a two rope bridge - one for the feet, one for the hands), again working on the premise that the zombies can't cope with the skill needed.
Another feature of building sites are the region of clear ground surrounding them, generally, there needs to be room for all the equipment and material drops, so this leaves a pretty good killing zone around your encampment. Equipment keys may be found in the site office, as would plans and such. Having multiple redundant escape routs means that if you are chased home, you can get up either by your main route, or by any of the rope connected buildings on either side.
Hurricane fence around the site would be a plus (solid walls might be bashed down, but the flexi links would give more than break) it might be necessary to cross truss the poles of the fence to better brace them (another good point about hurricane fence is that it is see through, and you can shoot or spear through it without damaging it overly). Again, camping and adventure stores would provide ropes, slings, pullys and the like.
Ground floor should be cleared of all heapable debris, as should all the walls of the structure. First floor should be fortified with more hurricane fence and have noisemaker alarms (snapable twine tripwire holding a can of nails off the roof - I know this works, I’ve used it) around access points. Barrels of fuel or other pyrotechnics (like home-made napalm) could be tipped on approaching zombies, or even set the whole floor on fire - concrete doesn't burn too well, and you needn't set fire to the world, just enough to cook some zombie-ass.
Second floor should be barricaded but could be used for supplies (why would you want to haul stuff higher than you need to, except what was at risk from a "scorched earth" attack see above.
Habitation could be on the third floor (or other floors as long as there were a couple of roofs above you for heat retention in winter and coolness in summer. By lashing planks to concrete support beams it would be possible to nail heavy plastic sheets to enclose areas, making rooms out of bare floors. (Drilling concrete is hard to do right, and no power to drive your electric masonry drills either . . .)
Wood fires in 44 gallon drums for heating (in ventilated "rooms" - duh) to conserve bottled gas for cooking and water purification. Sanitation by over-the-edge-dunny, just like in castles. Sponge baths and retaining "grey water".

Personal Protection Equipment:
As previously stated; waterproof (gore-proof actually) rugged gear like motorcycle leathers and racing suits, motor-cross armor and helmets, 3mm wet suit, respirator/face-mask, gloves and such. In the long term, you would want several full sets, for yourself (replacements) and for any and all survivors you come across.
Industrial containers of cleaning products wouldn't go astray.

Weapons:
As long as there are zombies in your area, there are going to be risks, and after a while, "culling" may prove to be worthwhile (once you are established and secure). Assuming you are not directly competing for resources (-do- the zombies eat or drink?) they still want to kill -you-, and will not stop trying. But you have the use of your thumbs, and long range firearms. Raiding the few rifle stores in the city, police stations and maybe local army barracks might yield some more firearms, and whilst I would keep my shotgun and sword handy at all times, you could do with some rifled weapons to pick off zombies at range. By setting up a killing zone somewhere (not near your habitation, you don’t want to advertise) again, a raised secure location, with a clear field of fire, you could draw the zombies to you; car horns explosions, yelling, etc and pick them off. The risk is of course being overwhelmed. Several fall back positions are essential, as is not only a supply of easy to access ammo, but also of weapons, in case of jams and fouls, just ditch it and grab another - you can always get it back later, its not like they are going to steal it . . . )
Military hardware might be an option if you know where to get it, and there is anything you can use laying around.
Home made explosives and pyrotechnics would likewise be good if you know how to make them (I can do some) but may be just too difficult to use effectively.
Traps around your area (sign-posted for any survivors who stumble into your area [zombie’s cant read]) would also be good; deadfall, pits, spikes (swinging and emplaced). No need to go non-lethal, that will just end in catching a loud zombie, who will bring more friends, and wreck your trap.

Transport:
Likewise, i'd stick with the diesel flat-bed truck i initially proposed, unless i came across an army UNIMOG or ASLAV
and again; stockpile spares, fuel and another vehicle. arcanumveritas suggested that when traveling, coasting the last 500m (as best you can) before stopping and getting out of your vehicle would enable you to arrive without alerting the zombies.
Having a boat might also be of some use, its a mobile habitat, and could move you to one of the islands off the coast, but you would have to see if zombies could swim first to check whether or not that would aid you overly. Similarily any of the big ships in the harbour would make quite the prize, once any gang-planks were knocked down, and ropes were made secure (keeping zombies off) but big ships require crews and skill to move. But they would be nice and secure to live on.

Supplies:
Venturing out would probably be the most dangerous task a survivor would face, and should be done as infrequently as possible, and be done as prepaired as possible. Mid morning departures and late afternoon arrivals avoiding dusk and nightime travel, when not only the zombies are more active, but also visability is lowest. Securing the exit point would be the first step, either by leaving as quitely as possible, and resecuring the perimiter defences, or ifthere are zombies in the area, by killing them off as quickly and efficently as possible, and leaving rapidly. This would leave your compound exposed, and would require patrolling of the interior upon your return, which, would take time, so would by necesity cut excursion time, to allow for daylight search time.
Once local supplies had been exhausted, it is likely that further and further travel would be needed to reteive supplies. By avoiding major routes (Highways and Freeways) which would probably be clogged with abandoned cars you could still reach suburban shopping centers. Backing up the truck, and loading packaged goods in bulk directly from store-rooms would be quick and efficent. Once local and suburban supermarkets are exhausted (which would take some time) the outlying supply depots would be next in line. By collecting supplies in bulk (keeping in mind a balanced diet, as best you can with tins) you would be able to supply yourself for quite some time with a couple of truckloads. Likewise army bases (if you can get to them) would be filled with all kinds of goodies. However, raiding large greeneries may well supply you with garden vegatables and fruits-trees, which you could populate your upper floors with, giving you a source of fresh vegitables, as would orchards and the like, there are several only just out of Melbourne. You might even collect livestock from the proximal farms and bring them back either live, or as fresh meat.
Hopsitals have supplies of medication, saline, and surgical gear, but most of the pharmesuticals have short shelf lives and many need to be chilled.

Community:
Ok, so now io get to address the "save the girls from the college dorm" suggestion taavi made, untill i was situated, i wouldnt go looking for other people, no way in hell. But once settled, it would be worth while. In fact, very worthwhile. An extra set of eyes means extra security, be it on an excursion, or while constructing defences (long, hard and noisy) and if nothing else, for the community of it.

Rescue:

(more to follow)

Retrospective: terrorists? plague? zombies? what i'd pack for 'the hills'

 Going back in time for a bit, I went back and reviewed my old LiveJournal (June 2003 - September 2017) and found this gem I thought I'd share here too. Written in 2003, in the halcyon "before times, pre-Covid, pre-"The Walking Dead", I pondered what to do in a "28 Days Later" style disaster, in two parts. Much has changed in the 20 years since I first wrote this. I have two children now, and the very world has changed. Here is my un-edited "short term plans"Circa 2003. Enjoy.

• Oct. 17th, 2003 at 11:50 PM

so after watching 28 days later i've been thinking about what I would do in the event of discovering that I needed to escape. Now, I have the advantage of having already had to do this for real just before the first Gulf War in '90 (well we never actually left, but we were packed and ready), but I thought I'd have another think, as an excersise in logistics. Major movie spoilers included as background, beware.


Situation:
Terrorists (or misguided animal rights activists) have released a virus which zombifies anyone who gets infected (infection is by fluid-fluid transfer, limited direct aerosol and requires a primate host). The infected undergo minor physiological changes, but psychologically are rendered incapable of rational thought and most survival instincts, such as fear of fire, and presumably feeding and drinking. Their only actions are rest and the pursuit of non-infected individuals to attack and kill or infect. Within days of release the plague has spread throughout urbanised areas, and whole population centres vanish. Government efforts to slow the infection are overwhelmed. Infrastructure such as power, water, gas, food distribution and communications cease. Perhaps one in one hundred thousand people is neither infected or killed. Presumably the infection is worldwide, but this is unknown, without a means of communication.

You (me) wake to find yourself in an empty room, an empty hospital, and empty world. signs of chaos abound; looted shops, car wrecks, and bodies, many many bodies. Scattered newspapers and graffiti indicate the end of the world.
You meet a couple of other survivors, they tell you the rest. You meet some of the infected and flee, some are killed as is one of your fellow survivors, by the other.

What do you do?
First up, I would hole up and assess the situation, it would be freaky and I'd be very freaked out and need a chance to think.

The it would be logistics time.
Where to live? Do you risk the city, or head out into the country? There are supplies in the city, and they count.

So, short term,
high security habitation:
in my opinion, most buildings are not equipped to hold off ravenous hoards, too many fire escapes, glass fronting and the like, sure buildings without fire escapes are "death-traps" but for fighting off the zombies, you want security of flesh, not just of mind. Why not a bank? you might ask, well, most security requires power, to open (and lock) all those magnetic locks, un bolt all those doors and the like. Without power they just sit there, jut like in the movies, they need to be 'opened' by skilled people with tools. well, that's not me, I'm a guy all alone in a dead city. then I thought height. office towers and the like, still, fire escapes. this would require a bit too much fortification. whilst the zombie masses cant do locks and such, I figure they could probable shamble over blockades, bash through simple reinforcing and the like. ever try to cut a fire escape down? it wouldn't be easy.
The other problem with high density populations like in towers would be the resident zombie population, odd are, the more people that used to be there, the more zombies there are now.

So in the end, I figure in rooftops, places where it takes quite a bit of skill to get up to, like factory rooftops or construction sites, where the stairs aren't up yet (remember the lifts aren't working). Go high enough to see around, and to give some space between any noises you make and the zombies listening for you. Get rope (climbing or hardware stores, there are several in and around Melbourne, most cities would have them) Knock down any scaffolding that gives access. When you need to get up, use your rope, when you are up, pull it up after you. Build some shelter, secure as best you can with what you have.

Personal Protection Equipment:
So you splatter mrs zombie with a baseball bat, that's great, did you make a mist of her brains all over yourself? woops.
Raincoats, plastic raincoats. Rubber gloves! Goggles and dust masks! id head to a fire station, get a face mask, and a fireman's outfit. Or motorcycle gear, nice and new from the empty shops, wack a raincoat over that and you have a splatter and tear resistant set of armor. Sure, if you know where to find riot gear, go for it.
Detergent and antiseptic! wash wash wash change clothes, get out of splattered gear if its not sealed up good. You may get hot, but when your have to go out, do it safe. Get some body armor, once again, motorcycle shops have it. Some 3mm wetsuit probably wouldn't go astray either, not too heavy, or thick, but tough waterproof and resilient.

Weapons:
Lets be fair, zombie comes after you, you want it to go away, quickly, and from as far away as you can. Me, I know pointy things. screw baseball bats. screw having to hit someone multiple times to put them down. I'm going swords. Sword verses bare-hands gets messy quickly. But that puts you very close to the action, and given the choice I'd be a bit further away. so what to do? a spear or lance is a good idea, especially if you have a cross bar on it, good for sticking your zombie and holding them at bay till the 12 inch, broad leaf head does its job. Even then, that's a bit close for me, id rather not be close enough to have to go hand to hand. That brings us to projectile weapons. initially I thought of bows; quiet, light but a bit slow between shots. Rifles? well not as prevalent in Melbourne as in the US, but more so than in the UK, but again, there are problems, they are loud, and alert the zombies as to where you are and like an arrow, a bullet is a precision object, it either hits or misses. my answer, shotgun. packs a punch, good enough range for venturing out for supplies with added bonus of spray, for those close in situations where seconds would count. sure its loud, but if you are using it defensively they already know you are there. If you were taking the fight to the zombies (which I wouldn't want to) then you might want to find some military hardware (good luck).

Transport:
Diesel, there are lots of trucks, they have big tanks and there would be lots of fuel sitting around. (petrol stations would not work, they have pumps). Flat bed trucks are the way to go I think, plenty of storage room, no where for zombies to hide, pretty good pickup, and range. get one with a bull-bar and you are all set for zombie bashing fun. jerry cans of extra fuel just in case. make sure its got a jack and spare tyres.
Actually finding a vehicle might be an issue to start with, if everyone is dead, where are the keys? I would start looking for depots, "leave your keys" parking lots and the like, get -something- and upgrade later.

Supplies:
No power, no water, no food distribution.
Fresh produce would be all rotten or going that way, but canned and preserved good will last for ages. Presuming they haven't already been looted, supermarkets would be a goldmine of supplies, so would the distribution centers that supply them. Bottled water has become very popular and can be found in bulk. Canned meats, vegetables and fruits are all easy to find as are vitamins and antiseptics. Rice lasts forever if its kept dry and pest free, and also comes in bulk, but needs to be cooked. Batteries and torches, gloves and salt.

Camping stores would supply cooking stoves, sleeping gear and outside wear and adventure gear (ropes, harness and such)

Hospitals would have medical supplies, but how many of us know how much of what to take and when? I can plug a hole, and -look up- antibiotic dosages, but that's long term as far as this scenario goes. They also have plenty of cleaning agents and protective gear.

Syphoning water from tanks would work for a while, until the rains, likewise fuel, from parked vehiclesPart 2 here:

Review: Back Country cusine Beef Terriyaki

Time for a food post. When on the trail, camping, bugging out or even bugging in, it is advantageous to have tasty, easy to prepare and storage stable meals. I've covered Back Country Cuisine meals before as well as the similar Outdoor Gourmet Company meals Even compared to the main meal components of MRE ration packs they compare well. One thing I really like about this kind of dehydrated meal (which I fondly recall from way back in my Houston childhood,) is the NASA like retort the meals come in.  The main meal  I selected was the beef Teriyaki, which weighed in at 175g dry, and called for 438 ml (1¾ cups or K2 fill line) of boiling water be added to meal pouch. Stir and stand for 10-15 minutes. Serving size 613g (once prepared). The pouch has an internal ziplock to seal in the meal and heat during the re-hydration process. The retort bottom blouses out at the bottom to allow it to stand on its own. 

The meal itself  consists of freeze dried beef, rice and vegetables in a soy flavoured sauce. The meal is both Gluten free and had no added dairy, both good to know for those with dietary requirements like Coeliac's such as I have in my family. One thing I neglected to pay attention to was the full ingredient list and one of the vegitable components was dehydrated capsicum to which i'm allergic. Thankfully I was able to pick out even after re-hydration, with no ill effects. The squares of dehydrated beef reconstituted nicely as did the rice. The dish, once water is added, and left to stand for 10-15 minutes, and given a good stir ( right down to the corners of the retort), the meal thickened up into a very satisfying consistency. Easily spoonable without being sloppy, it was easy shared out.  

I shared this meal in order to help vette it for future stock-ups  (a very good policy, taste-test your food preps). 

As well as  being a hot, fast and tasty meal, nutritionally they offer quite a lot. A single serve meal provides Energy 3180kJ (759Cal), Protein 34.1g, Fat 22.7g, Fat - saturated 9.3g, Carbohydrate - total 103g, Carbohydrate - sugars 27.1g, Sodium 1990mg. Probably not what you'd want to eat every day, but certainly suitable to have on adventures or whilst in the midst of crisis. The flavour was mild and inoffensive and as an all-in-one meal it certainly works. 

I've made mystery-can meals before, but having a balanced and blended meal was an excellent step up in preparedness and certainly a vast improvement in palatability over compressed rations biscuits. Family approved!

Hal

Review: Campmaster single burner stove

Carrying on in the series of camp cooking posts, let me bring to your attention the utilitarian Campmaster Single Butane Stove. This simple and straightforward single burner stove only weighs 1700g (3 3/4 lbs), without a fuel canister, and  folds down into a very portable 343mm(13 1/2") x 280mm(11") x 118mm (4 2/3"). I've seen similar burners set up in Korean BBQ joints for at-the-table cooking. I've often used it for exactly that purpose, inside at the dining table and on innumerate picnic tables. The blue enameled steel frame is both sturdy and easy to clean. 

The stove takes standardized 220g Campmaster CRV Butane Gas Cartridges 4 Pack (Countersink release vent) safety cans which are explosion proof and they fit into a compartment on the side of the strove. The cartridge locks into place with a latch in the lip of the bottle and a lever beside the adjustable flame control needs to be engaged in order to connect the cartridge to the stove. The compartment closes when the stove is in operation to protect it and the user. it is well vented in case of leakages. 

The stove has a peizo-electric sparker, triggered by the Flame control dial which is handy. The stove has strong heating power: (Gas Consumption: 160g/h (7.9Mj/hr)) at maximum setting, which is plenty for a number of serves of a meal, or several rounds of quick cooking meals. 

The hob itself is cast aluminium, and the stove-top comes out and when flipped provides a trivet for resting pots and pans on, small enough to hold up an enamel mug for singular brews, perfect for cold mornings in a tent vestibule. The hob head is recessed in the stove-top to shield it from winds Though it should be noted there is a manufactures not not for use below 0oC freezing, presumably because the butane freezes up in the canister or in the tubes.

The stove is lightweight enough that its easily hikeable, especially important if you're going to a fire-free area and want to cook, without hauling a whole BBQ and gas bottle. I have to admit I stocked up on the canisters during the Covid lockdowns, in case there were mains-gas shortages or disruptions as part of my  bug-in / bug-out preparations, thankfully un-necessary. We did have several pleasant summer night al-fresco dinner cookouts, and I've even used it for at-the-table teppanyaki  and hibachi type meals. ( Be sure to ensure it is used in well ventilated spaces and that the stove is set up on a heat-proof location as radiant heat can scorch surfaces. ) The canisters are self-sealing and can be stored for lengthy periods between uses.

Home Front: COVID-19 bug-in cache

With the current COVID-19 pandemic scare going on, I thought it prudent to supplement my food stored in case we needed to enact the self-quarantine the Australian government is recommending in the case of exposure.  I suspected something like this might occur so as soon as i heard of an outbreak in China. Mostly due to the risk to supply chains.  Given the reported nature of the virus, in both infection rates and morbidity and mortality, I'm not overly concerned about the disease itself, but rather the disruption to supply lines.

This is the kind of prepping anyone can do and its as simple as picking up a few extra items each time you go shopping. Long lasting staples.  I chose things I like to eat, and things I will take camping.  I didn't pre-stockpile toilet paper which was the panic-buy item of choice  reported and experienced, but some judicial and crafty shopping saw us stocked without issue. Something to note for next time.

That said, here is a quick look at my very quickly and inexpensively put together bug-in food cache. Nothing too exciting, nor anything that will go to waste. this is all stuff  I will eat over time and replenish and build on as time goes on.

Red Feather Butter cans: Providing energy rich fats and good taste, for frying, baking, spreading on bread.

Spam cans 340g A traditional prepping staple. Long lasting, tasty and versatile, has its own opening  system and a Weird Al song and Monty Python skit. 3 year best-by date.  I prefer it sliced or diced and fried but its palatable enough eaten from the can with a spoon if you're in a bind.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bully_beef, this mechanically reclaimed potted meat and rendered lard in a can. Bully Beef. Not a very exciting food, nor especially sophisticated but it is meat, long lasting, ready to eat and can be added to many other foods. 'Pocalypse Stew as well as the traditional 'shit on a shingle". (served on toast like pate) It kind of looks like pet food. 

Noodles: Ramen. packs Two-minute pre-fried noodles in a packet.  Comes with its own seasoning sachets. Best eaten as noodles in soup  (ready in just  2 minutes give or take) or eat dry sprinkling the seasoning on top as you munch. They also make excellent fire starters being dry and greasy. I prefer the "mi goreng" flavor which it includes a chili/sauce/oil sachet for added flavor variety and use in other dishes as needed as well as fortifying the meal.

Baked Beans  555g cans: Beans Beans ,good for the heart. Best served hot, "Fine like this" if you shun compromise and wear an ink blot mask. 

Stew cans, Braised steak and onion;  425g cans. A meal in a can, simple and tasty. good texture and serves two per can.

Soup cans, Chunky bacon and potato x3 505g cans. Another meal in a can, though not quite as satisfying as the stew cans. Better when combined with other foods.

Ration biscuits: PRC food bricks

MRE's: from a variety of sources.  Pre-packaged military style meals ready to eat. not fancy but very carefully put together and long lasting.

Water jugs: Every time I go camping I buy one of these 10L-20L bricks and take them to ensure I have clean water for drinking, cooking and even wash-ups. Afterwards I keep the jugs and with some simple cleaning and refilling with tap-water they're good to go for long term water storage.

Powdered Egg mix: 150g, equivalent to a dozen fresh eggs when reconstituted with water. can be used to make scrambled egg or omelette or as a binding agent in baking. 

Sauces/Soup Mix:  I keep the excess sauce packets from fasts food meals and also the soup sachets from ramen packets to act as soup stock and seasoning for other meals, especially the otherwise bland Spam, beans and corned beef. What otherwise might have been throw away I've kept and stored to supplement my meal stores. 

Mac and Cheese kits: x4 boxes 380g "serves 3. contains pasta packet and canned cheese for use as a sauce. Requires only water to cook. The canned cheese can be eaten separately or combined with other supplies. 

Pasta sauce, Jars of tomato paste with flavorsome herbs, good for making stews, pasta and adding flavor and nutrition to any meal.

Can Pie; Steak and Kidney. Pie including pastry in a tin. Designed to be cooked in the tin (Lid off) it is possible to bake the pie in coals, with some coals on top, by partially opening the tin.

In addition to these specific canned good stores i've stockpiled, I have routinely built up supplies, preserved foods like jams and jerky. Dry-goods like rice, beans, flour and sugar i've kept well stocked and stored in DPJ's  along with fruit preserves and even some pickled eggs.

camp ideas

So I've been wanting to get a bit more social with my prepping and thought it might be nice to arrange a camping skill-share, where we could get together, make camp, share some ideas and knowledge and practice some skills and test out gear. In thinking about this I got to thinking about skills and ideas for discussion topics.  My thoughts around it revolved around the bug-out decision and what could or would be needed in those situations. 

So here is my brainstorming list of ideas around topics to cover both philosophical topics surrounding TEOTWAWKI scenarios and situations where wilderness bug-outs might be beneficial, and also covering skills and techniques I feel might be worth sharing for a SHTF situation.

 The idea would be to put into practice some of the skills and preps people have gathered and learn new ways of doing things in a relaxed, pressure-free environment.

I don't claim to be super knowledgeable or skilled but I think it would be a valuable experience and a great way to socialize mindsets as well as test out gear. 

To bug in or bug out

- when (depending on the event, there may or may not be a warning, sheltering in -place may be advantageous) (traffic, unrest, martial law, fuel restrictions, road clearance, security)
- how (on foot, in a vehicle, daytime, night-time, overt or covert)

- trigger points (depends on the situation, essential services, social markers (rioting, mobs, looting)

- prep (depending on the situation there may be time to do last minute preps (storm proofing windows, shopping, water storage)

- Where:

Should the decision come to bug-out, one of the first thoughts I think worth discussing was that of site selection. Given the variety of threats that could trigger a bug-out, such choices would need to be suitable for the situation at hand.

As I see it, a site selection depends on four basic elements: 

- access (can you hike to it, does it have road access, do you need ladders, ropes or a boat to reach it?)

- resources (food,  water, firewood, materiale on site)

- physical security (distance, isolation, cliffs, dense forest, rivers, fences, buildings, walls)
- obscurity (is it a commonly known or popular location, does it get plentiful visitors in normal times)

Having settled on a bug-out location and making it there, you are faced with some choices around camp layout that will need to be considered, these apply to any camping situation.

- shelter

- wind

- local hazards (rivers, cliffs, marshes, wildlife)

- areas (sleeping / cooking / fire / toiletries / craft)

- distance to water 

Shelter building. Depending on your situation and expected duration of your stay you may need to take into consideration a variety of elements such seasonal weather and both convenience and comfort. Do you need to build  a log cabin to winter in or stilt house to monsoon in?

- natural

- salvage

- portable

Foraging: Bugging out is usually a limiting idea when it comes to resources. There will be only so many meals you can pack and take with you ,and after that you'll have to fend or yourself. 

- bush food

- salvage (neighboring residences / "abandoned" towns, risks of venturing out)

- hunting

- caching

- farming (crops  & livestock)

Fire craft: Cooking, water purifying, heat, light, craft and security. Fire brings all thee things and there are fewer things that say "survival" more than being able  to start and maintain a fire. But it can be dangerous, time and energy consumptive (fire wood is hard work to chop and haul)

-stoves

- bow drill

- fire steel/ flint / Ferrocerium

- smokeless buried

- fuel (harvesting and storing)

Water: essential for life, for crops, for hygiene and  sometimes remarkably difficult to come across.

- sand charcoal filter

- evaporation still/plant harvest

- streams, billabongs, springs, rain harvest

I love a sunburnt country,
A land of sweeping plains,
Of ragged mountain ranges,
Of droughts and flooding rains.
I love her far horizons,
I love her jewel-sea,
Her beauty and her terror
The wide brown land for me!

-My Country, Poem by Dorothea Mackeller

Food: Ok ,so, you've got your crates of MRE, your boxes of ramen and cans of beans, and lugged it a ll out to your bug-out location. Now you have to eat it. as a limited resource you want to ensure you waste as little as possible, maximise caloric content and avoid meal-fatigue. 

- - cooking/food/MRE's/rations

- - storage

- - hobo stew

Camp craft: There are all manner of skills to learn and things to make to improve camp living. Some are purely outdoors skills, others are wilderness survival and others just useful.

- travois building

-navigation

travois building
cleaning/ hygiene/ latrine
canoeing/fishing

first aid
sharpening tool/knife

signaling
gadgets

rope, knots, cordage, nets

Security: having arrived at your site, you'll want to establish a perimeter and put some kind of security in place, if the situation calls for it, based on the level of threats expected, you may need to deploy all manner of security to protect your location, your supplies and yourselves.  

traps / tripline alarms / noisemakers

- light/noise discipline

- snares, traps and static defense

- hiking/stealth

- tracking/stalking

  

 

The 5 c's of survival - combustion/cordage/ containers/ cover/cutting tool

Camp stuff aside, there's the whole "when is enough's enough", when to pack up and big out or board up and bug in. Some scenarios are better for bug-in vs bug out and would take some debating to determine what constitutes what kind of risks or benefits. 

Situations leading to a bug-out.

- social collapse: fabric of society in tatters, no law, no services, reliant on pre-established community goodwill if it exists. 

- economic collapse: mass unemployment and poverty, starvation and resource scarcity. law and order stretched thin, but government still operates in some capacity. Profiteering rampant. Currency irrelevant. 

- governmental collapse: formal government dissolved essential services operate on volunteer basis only. Free market economy continues but currency may be unstable .

- natural disaster: devastating and dangerous. depending on the nature of the event the damage may be narrow or widespread, limited or long term.

- - floods

- - dust bowl

- - fires (bushfire, urban wildfire, pipeline / refinery )

- - mega storms (hurricane, typhoon, tornado)

- - geological (earthquake, volcanic, impact events)

- disease  / plague

climate change: I don't need a 16 year old Swede to shame me into being concerned. Climate change could lead to a variety of cascading disasters.

- global warming

- - sea levels coastal shifts inland

- - droughts

- weather patterns

- - flooding

-- EL nino, La Nina

- - crop failures

- armada storms ( if one butterfly flapping its wings can cause a hurricane, imagine a whole swarm or an armada of butterflies and the storm they might create (thanks Peter F Hamilton))

water supply

- Drought

- -domestic water restrictions

- -crop  failures

- - bee pollination collapse

solar flare / increase (Circuitry Man) the day star is an angry friend and can do us harm in more ways than sunburn and drought. A burp of the sun could drop us back to the steam age and we lack the infrastructure to support it.

- grid down infrastructure failure, comms out

- emp

- radiation

- heat

Yellowstone super-volcano

Pacific Rim ring of fire eruptions/quakes

- ash

- tsunami

- plate shift

- reactor meltdowns

polar flip: i'm not convinced this one is really an issue worth listing as a disaster, rather a significant inconvenience and nuisance. 

- navigation

- Van Allen belt holes

power / fuel ( no oil, coal):  Fuel crisis might dramatically cut transportation, distribution and essential services. prices may skyrocket to compensate or they may simply halt

- electrical power grid down

-- water and sewage pumping cut / digital economy / comms

-- transportation / food distribution

international terrorism

- local infrastructure disruption

domestic terrorism :social unrest and instability, cultural shifts and revolutionary. All are disruptive and might warrant  a"get out of Dodge"  to avoid being caught up in or being on the wrong end of.

- religious extremism

- jihad vs crusade

- hate crimes/race war

plague: global Pandemics, sweeping through countries , killing or incapacitating people could lead to infrastructure and societal collapse as well as the direct threat of infection.

- Spanish flu

- red flu ( the Last Ship)

- crop blight (Interstellar)
- livestock blight

war: woah, woah, woah, what is it good for? Not property values that's for sure. Time to Wolveriene's out!

- invasion

- thermonuclear fallout

Crazy Supernatural disaster: I'm not going to shirk from addressing the very dear threats to the movie-going preppers lists even if it's not a credible threat. Worth it for fireside discussion with  a few drinks at the very least.

- zombies

- aliens

- trifids

- kaiju

Would some kind of camping trip with workshops appeal? If you're in my geographical region and would like to hang out do drop me a line. We'll chop some wood and char some food, rig some traps and get our hands dirty.

Home Front: "pocalypse stew"

Having a hot meal is a simple way to both bolster morale but also provide much needed nutrition and energy, especially in adverse conditions. Being able to reliably produce a meal can be as good as magic in the field. I had the chance to do so at a recent post-apocalyptic Live action role playing camping trip, whee we had to set up themed camp with a deadline, and a pot-luck dinner had been planned. There was a total-fire ban in place so no campfires were allowed, but portable gas burners were allowed if supervised. I had brought along my SOLIDteknics AUS-ION Noni pot and some apocalypse themed austere ingredients.


2 x cans corned 340g Hamper Corned beef
1 x can 822g Edgell potato tiny taters
2X McDonalds tomato sauce
2x instant noodle sachets bumbu & fried onions

The corned beef cans come with a key to open them by twisting the top off. The Tiny Taters can didn't have an easy open option, however, I had my trusty p-51 opener and made quick work of the can. I up-ended the cans of corned beef, which had the texture and appearance of cat-food and set it to sizzling. when the fat had rendered, I poured in the whole can of tiny taters, water and all (waste not, want not) and then stirred it through. This made for a very wet stew so I was glad I had the noodle sachets to add. in they went and then the McDonalds / KFC ketsup. (I save everyone of these I get for just this reason.)

After a little cooking down, I served it up into the mugs and mess-tins of my compatriots and we had cooked, adult meal to go with the tear-aparts and dips we had combined. It was quite salty (the noodle-bumbu is mostly salt) but palatable and by the next day, there was only half scoop worth at the bottom of the pot.
Not a pretty meal by a long shot, but it was fast, (taking less than 10 minuted from pile of ingredients to edible food in mugs).

Different spice and sauce mixes could change the palatability if available but could even be skipped entirely. Canned corned beef has an approximate shelf life of 2-5 years but who knows how long it could last and be safe to eat? Certainly worth considering if outfitting that cabin-in-the-woods or bunker. I certainly keep a couple of cans in my bug-out food crate and you should to!

Some additional variants that would make improvements to an otherwise very plain meal. A handful of rice, or oats would give additional body, as would dry beans or split peas. Some jerky or even fresh meat scraps would be additional and offer a delightful surprise in some mouthfuls. Bear in mind to soften beans, rice and jerky additional cooking time (and water) will be required. As well as the Bumbu powder sachets saved from ramen noodles, I also save the sauce and oil sachets which can add flavour and body to just about any meal. Remember that fats and oils are an important dietary requirement and energy rich as well as carrying flavours. They also aid in the cooking process if you fry things, so keeping some in your supply is multifunctional.